Celtic Knot Granny blanket – Plans & Patterns

I promised to post the plans and patterns for the blanket I showed you last week – https://rainbowjunkiecorner.wordpress.com/2020/07/12/a-celtic-knot-granny-blanket/

Celtic Knot Granny blanket completed

For a small cost, find all this and more in a pdf (Two versions in UK or US terms provided) here – https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/celtic-knot-granny-blanket which includes  suggestions for designing your own version and extensions plus instructions for a join-as-you-go sequence to emphasize the background/foreground, over/under nature of the design. Also a colouring sheet that includes the join-as-you-go sequence.

A Colouring sheet to try out your own colours for the original Celtic Knot blanket and first pictured octagonal blanket can be downloaded here – Celtic Knot Granny blanket – Colouring sheets

Any hook and any yarn can be used but those listed below are most suitable.

DK/Light worsted yarn, a 4 – 4.5mm hook and four rounds should give a square with a side length of about 4 inches. Increasing the number of rounds to 5 or 6 should give a square with a side length of that number of inches.

Aran/Worsted yarn, a 6 – 7mm hook and three rounds should give a square with a side length of about 4 inches.

Note

The designs use a basic Granny Square with each round worked in the reverse direction to the previous, a half Granny Square, a quarter Granny Square and for the Octagonal design or, when adding an extension to make a rectangular blanket, a half and half, two colour Granny Square.

The blanket shown above uses four rounds for the Granny Squares, in DK yarn, and measure about 36 inches square but squares can be made in any size. The side length of the blanket will be about eight times the diagonal length of one square. The octagonal versions are the same size or similar. Of course this is without any border.

There is a suggestion below the patterns for a first round to finish the square before adding a border of your choice.

Now the Plans

The basic plan of the central square is plan for Celtic Knot Granny blanket

As you can see if you count them, you will need:
Background:- 25 squares, 12 half squares, 4 quarter squares
Each Main Colour: 22 squares, 4 half squares.

However if you wanted a more rectangular shape you could extend the blanket.

My suggested extended blanket looks like this. plan with two added extensions

To add the extensions you will need:
Background: 42 more squares. (21 for each extension). 18 half squares (9 for each extension).
Each Main colour: 10 more squares.
You will also need to make two LESS half squares of each main colour and replace them with two half and half squares that are half in that colour and half in the background colour. (Pattern included below)

I did design an alternative central square, based on my Octagonal Coaster.

Here plan based on octagonal coaster

As you can see if you count them, you will need:
Background:- 25 squares and 4 half squares, 8 half and half squares.
Each Main Colour: 16 squares, 2 half and half squares and 2 half squares.

Leaving out the corners you could create an octagonal blanket. octagonal blanket paln

You can even make an all square version of the octatgonal blanket though you do need some half and half Granny Squares. Octagonal coaster plan with all squares

I give the patterns is UK terms. Obviously if you prefer US terms just read dc for tr.

Basic Granny Square

If you chose the join as you go method the last round will be the right side, so for an even number of rounds the first round is the wrong side.

Because the two sides are so similar it can be helpful, even if you crochet over the tail, to leave the end sticking out on the wrong side and not sew it in or cut it until the end, in order to ensure consistency when placing squares to be joined.

You can start with a magic loop or by joining five chain in a circle with a slip stitch. Since the centre of the square remains open with a hole about the same size as all the other holes, the five chain circle may be a more secure method.

Because the trebles are worked into the gaps, 2chain is sufficient for height at the start of a round and slip stitching into the top of the first actual treble and not the top of the chains keeps things tight.

Round 1: 2ch(=1st tr), 2trs into circle, Then repeat [(2ch, 3trs) into circle] three times. 2ch and slip stitch to top of first actual tr (not 2ch at start). Turn work.

Round 2: Slip stitch into the 2ch gap. 2ch(=1st tr), (2trs, 1ch) into same gap. Then repeat [(3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into next gap] three times.
(3tr, 2ch) into first gap and slip stitch to top of first actual tr (not 2ch at start).. Turn work.

Round 3: Slip stitch into the 2ch gap. 2ch(=1st tr), (2trs, 1ch) into same gap. Then repeat [(3trs, 1ch) into 1ch gap and (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into next 2ch gap] three times.
(3trs, 1ch) into 1ch gap, 3tr 2ch into first gap and slip stitch to top of first actual tr (not 2ch at start).. Turn work.

Following rounds: For all subsequent rounds the number of three trebles groups will increase by one each side. The basic pattern will be as follows.

Starting with – (Slip stitch into the 2ch gap. 2ch(=1st tr), (2trs, 1ch) into same gap). then (3trs, 1ch) into each 1ch gap and (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into each 2ch gap in the corners. Each round will finish with (3tr, 2ch) into first gap and slip stitch to top of first actual tr (not 2ch at start).. Turn work.

At the end: either stop after the slip stitch of pull the yarn through the second chain and finish invisibly.

Half Granny Square

(These are only used along the edges)

Here it is worth starting with a magic loop as you will pull the loop tight. You will be working in rows.

Row 1: 4ch(=tr, 1ch) then (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into loop, tr into loop, Turn.

Row 2: 4ch(=tr, 1ch) then (3trs, 1ch) into 1ch gap then (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into 2ch gap, (3trs, 1ch) into 1ch gap and tr into 3rd ch at start of previous row. Turn.

Row 3: 4ch(=tr, 1ch) then repeat [(3trs, 1ch) into 1ch gap] twice then (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into 2ch gap and repeat [(3trs, 1ch) into 1ch gap] twice and tr into 3rd ch at start of previous row. Turn.

As with the Granny Square each row will add more three treble groups, in this case one each side of the central corner.

Each row will start with 4ch(=tr, 1ch) followed by (3trs, 1ch) into each 1ch gap) then (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into 2ch gap, followed by (3trs, 1ch) into each 1ch gap and tr into 3rd ch at start of previous row. Turn.

At the end cut the yarn and pull through the last stitch and secure.

Quarter Granny Square

(These are needed for the corners only)

Here it is worth starting with a magic loop as you will pull the loop tight. You will be working in rows.

Row 1: 4ch(=tr, 1ch) then (3trs, 1ch) into loop, tr into loop, Turn.

Row 2: 4ch(=tr, 1ch) then repeat [(3trs, 1ch) into 1ch gap] twice and tr into 3rd ch at start of previous row. Turn.

Row 3: 4ch(=tr, 1ch) then repeat [(3trs, 1ch) into 1ch gap] three times and tr into 3rd ch at start of previous row. Turn.

As with the Granny Square each row will add more three treble groups, in this case one each row.

Each row will start with 4ch(=tr, 1ch) followed by (3trs, 1ch) into each 1ch gap) and tr into 3rd ch at start of previous row. Turn.

At the end cut the yarn and pull through the last stitch and secure.

Half and Half Granny Square

(These are used within the body of the blanket where two different coloured triangles meet)

You will only need these if you extend the original design or make the octagonal design.

This is a Granny Square that looks like two half Granny Squares in different colours stuck together but is in fact worked in rounds changing colours half way.

Because the trebles are worked into the gaps, 2chain is sufficient for height at the start of a round and slip stitching into the top of the first actual treble and not the top of the chains keeps things tight.

You can start with a magic loop or by joining five chain in a circle with a slip stitch. Since the centre of the square remains open with a hole about the same size as all the other holes, the five chain circle may be a more secure method.

I will refer to the two colours as colour A and colour B

With Colour A:

Round 1: 2ch(=1st tr), 2trs into circle, Then (2ch, 3trs) into circle. 1ch and then join in colour B and make 2nd ch.

With Colour B:
Repeat [(3trs, 2ch) into circle] twice and slip stitch to top of first actual tr (not 2ch at start). Turn work.

Round 2: Slip stitch into the 2ch gap. 2ch(=1st tr), (2trs, 1ch) into same gap. Then (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into next (2ch) gap and (3tr, 2ch) into following (2ch) gap. Remove hook from loop and make sure loop does not close.

With Colour A:

Pull yarn under nearby gap and 3ch(=1st tr), remove hook and pull colour A loop through colour B loop

(2trs, 1ch) into same gap. Then (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into next (2ch) gap and (3tr, 2ch) into first gap and slip stitch to top of first actual tr (not 2ch at start). Turn work.

Round 3: Slip stitch into the 2ch gap. 2ch(=1st tr), (2trs, 1ch) into same gap. Then (3trs, 1ch) into next (1ch) gap and (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into following (2ch) gap, (3trs, 1ch) into next (1ch) gap, (3tr 2ch) into following (2ch) gap where colours change. Remove hook from loop and make sure loop does not close.

With Colour B:

Pull yarn under nearby gap and 3ch(=1st tr), remove hook and pull colour B loop through colour A loop.

(2trs, 1ch) into same gap. Then (3trs, 1ch) into next (1ch) gap and (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into following (2ch) gap, (3trs, 1ch) into next (1ch) gap, (3tr 2ch) into following (2ch) gap and slip stitch to top of first actual tr (not 2ch at start). Turn work.

As you can see, after the first half round, two half rounds are worked with each colour in turn. The square will be complete however many rounds you are doing after one half round with one of the colours. It will be colour B for an odd number of rounds and colour A for an even number of rounds.

Following rounds: As with the normal Granny Square, for all subsequent rounds the number of three trebles groups will increase by one each side. The basic pattern will be as follows.
With whichever colour is in use at present:

Slip stitch into the 2ch gap. 2ch(=1st tr), (2trs, 1ch) into same gap, then (3trs, 1ch) into each 1ch gap and (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into first 2ch gap in the corner. Followed by (3trs, 1ch) into each 1ch gap. At the next corner (3tr, 2ch) into the 2ch gap where the colours change.

Remove hook from loop and make sure loop does not close.

With other colour:

Pull yarn under nearby gap and 3ch(=1st tr), remove hook and pull that colour loop through the loop of the previous colour.

(2trs, 1ch) into same gap, then (3trs, 1ch) into each 1ch gap and (3trs, 2ch, 3trs, 1ch) into first 2ch gap in the corner. Followed by (3trs, 1ch) into each 1ch gap. At the next corner (3tr, 2ch) into the gap and slip stitch to top of first actual tr (not 2ch at start). Turn work and continue with same colour.

At the end: either stop after the slip stitch or pull the yarn through the second chain and finish invisibly.

Adding a Border

Adding one or more rounds of trebles into the gaps around the blanket in the background colour will give a good basis for your chosen border and will separate the central design from the border.

Three trebles into each of the gaps is about right. That is 24 per triangle.

With 5trs or (2tr, ch, 2tr) or 2tr, dtr, 2tr) into the magic loop for the corners.

So when making the quarter Granny Squares don’t tighten up the magic loop, leave enough room to insert the corner stitches.

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