Really Easy Snowflake Patterns

There are many incredibly delicate and complex crochet snowflakes but I had problems even with ones that I thought looked simpler so here are my Really Easy Snowflakes Patterns.

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If you don’t mind spending a bit of money you could check out my “Real Snowflakes” on Ravelry – HERE – (Only £2.00 + VAT) Suitable to be made in any weight yarn.

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I started using the sock yarn for the white socks but that makes very small fiddly snowflakes so I switched to DK (US worsted weight) yarn. My default size hook for this yarn is 4.5mm but I used a 4mm one to make them a bit firmer. I have used a pale blue yarn instead of the white for the step by step pictures because I think it makes the stitches easier to see.

You could really use almost any weight yarn and any hook depending on how big you want them but I think firm is best. Pulling the points may be necessary.

I am using UK crochet terms but I have done a simple ‘pattern only’ US version at the bottom.

Please point out any errors if you notice them.

Large

This only has four rows and only the last one is at all fiddly.

I used the Magic Loop Method to start all my snowflakes but you can use whatever is your favourite method.

I am not very good at draughtsmanship but here is a drawing I did for my project book that I thought gives a good idea of how the yarn goes for this method if you are a beginner.

Magic loop diagram

Row 1: 3ch=1st tr

then 11trs into hole.

Join with a slip stitch into the third chain at the beginning.

When I was beginning crocheting in the round it took me a while to realise but ‘working into the third chain’ meant working into the first place that it was easy to get into, that is almost above the first of the trebles.

First row complete

Row 2

When working into gaps I like to start by pulling the yarn through the gap to the right (the one before the three chain of the previous row)

and then pulling it to the right of the gap before working any more trebles.

Row 2: 3ch = 1st tr then 1tr, 1ch working into the gap to the right of the (3ch=1st tr) of the previous row.

Then work (2tr, 1ch) eleven more times, working into each gap between the trebles of the previous row. Slip stitch together as first row.

Second row complete

Row 3:
3ch = 1st tr then 2tr into the first space.

then (tr, 4ch, tr) into the next space.

Then alternate this with (3tr) into each space to the end. Slip stitch together as first row.

Third row complete

Row 4
Have you ever reflected on the fact that even single crochet stitches do not really sit neatly on top of each other but are actually slightly offset like the three treble groups are when doing granny squares.

So I decided for reasons of symmetry to work 4dc above the 3tr of the previous row.

Row 4: 2ch=1dc, then a further 2dc into the stitch holes (3 & 4) as in the picture above.

Then work a Trefoil = (2dc, 3ch, slst, 5ch, slst, 3ch 2dc) into the gap below the 4ch of the previous row. You can push the stitches along to the right if you feel you are running out of space for this.

Trefoil – chain loops opened up to make it easier to see

Then work 4dc over the 3tr groups as in the picture (holes 1,2,3,4) and the trefoils into the loops – all the way round.

Finish with a last dc into hole 1 and slst together into 2nd chain at start.

I have used 3-5-3 for the chains in the trefoil because I liked it best but for variety you could use 3-3-3, 5-5-5 or 5-7-5.

You could also try increasing the number of chains between the 3tr groups on row 3. But then of course you would need to increase the number of dcs in the trefoil.

Extra Large

This is similar to the large one but has five rows.

Row 1 & Row 2: are the same as the large.

Row 3: is similar to Row 3 above but you alternate 3tr with (2ch, 2tr, 2ch).

Row 4: Slst left to middle tr of row below. Then repeat (5ch, 2tr into gap between trs below, 5ch, slst into centre of 3tr from row below. [ I use hole 2 from my picture for this].) 6 times.

Row 5

I am going to call a slst into gap between 2 trs of row below – ssg

Row 5: Repeat (5dc into chain loop, ssg , 4ch, ssg, 7ch, ssg, 4ch, ssg, 5dc into next chain loop) 6 times.

End with slst into first dc to end.

Medium

This owes a lot to this free pattern. http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/snowflake-coaster-or-ornament especially for the second and third rows.

Row 1: as Large snowflake.

Row 2: (ch3, slst into next ch) 12 times. Last slst is into first st.

Row 3: On this row you alternate (dc into loop, ch4) with (dc into loop, ch2) and join with a slst.

Row 4: On this row you work a (3dc, 5ch, 3dc) into the larger loops and (dc, 3ch, dc) into the smaller loops and finish off with a slst into a likely hole.

Small

This only has 3 rows! The only thing that makes it all fiddly is the size.

Again I started with the Magic Loop but instead of 12trs I worked 12dcs into the loop.

Row 1: 2ch = 1st dc, 11dc into loop, slst together into 2nd chain.

Row 2: (5ch miss a st and slst into next one) 6 times. Last slst is into starting stitch. If you find you can’t miss a st for the last loop that means you have missed two sts at the start. (well that’s what I did sometimes).

Row 3: Trefoil into each loop as in the first pattern – which is (2dc, 3ch, slst, 5ch, slst, 3dc, 2dc) into each loop.

My very small one was done using a 3-3-3 pattern for the trefoil. I did have to pull extra hard on the points to get this one to lie flat.

Again variations in the size of loop and trefoil pattern are possible.

US Version Patterns

Large

This only has four rows and only the last one is at all fiddly.

I used the Magic Loop Method to start all my snowflakes but you can use whatever is your favourite method.

Row 1: 3ch=1st dc then 11dcs into hole. Join with a slip stitch into the third chain at the beginning.

Row 2

When working into gaps I like to start by pulling the yarn through the gap to the right (the one before the three chain of the previous row) pulling it to the right of the gap before working any more dcs.

Row 2: 3ch = 1st dc then 1dc, 1ch working into the gap to the right of the (3ch=1st dc) of the previous row. Then work (2dc, 1ch) eleven more times, working into each gap between the dcs of the previous row. Slip stitch together as first row.

Row 3: 3ch = 1st dc then 2dc into the first space then (dc, 4ch, dc) into the next space.

Then alternate this with (3dc) into each space to the end. Slip stitch together as first row.

Row 4: 2ch=1sc, then a further 2sc into the stitch holes (3 & 4) as in the picture above.

Then work a Trefoil = (2sc, 3ch, slst, 5ch, slst, 3ch 2sc) into the gap below the 4ch of the previous row. You can push the stitches along to the right if you feel you are running out of space for this.

Then work 4sc over the 3dc groups as in the picture (holes 1,2,3,4) and the trefoils into the loops – all the way round.

Finish with a last sc into hole 1 and slst together into 2nd chain at start.

I have used 3-5-3 for the chains in the trefoil because I liked it best but for variety you could use 3-3-3, 5-5-5 or 5-7-5.

You could also try increasing the number of chains between the 3dc groups on row 3. But then of course you would need to increase the number of scs in the trefoil.

Extra Large

This is similar to the large one but has five rows.

Row 1 & Row 2: are the same as the large.

Row 3: is similar to Row 3 above but you alternate 3dc with (2ch, 2dc, 2ch).

Row 4: Slst left to middle dc of row below. Then repeat (5ch, 2dc into gap between dcs below, 5ch, slst into centre of 3dc from row below. [ I use hole 2 from my picture for this].) 6 times.

Row 5

I am going to call a slst into gap between 2 dcs of row below – ssg

Row 5: Repeat (5sc into chain loop, ssg , 4ch, ssg, 7ch, ssg, 4ch, ssg, 5sc into next chain loop) 6 times.

End with slst into first sc to end.

Medium

This owes a lot to this free pattern. http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/snowflake-coaster-or-ornament especially for the second and third rows.

Row 1: as Large snowflake.

Row 2: (ch3, slst into next ch) 12 times. Last slst is into first st.

Row 3: On this row you alternate (sc into loop, ch4) with (sc into loop, ch2) and join with a slst.

Row 4: On this row you work a (3sc, 5ch, 3sc) into the larger loops and (sc, 3ch, sc) into the smaller loops and finish off with a slst into a likely hole.

Small

This only has 3 rows! The only thing that makes it all fiddly is the size.

Again I started with the Magic Loop but instead of 12dcs I worked 12scs into the loop.

Row 1: 2ch = 1st sc, 11sc into loop, slst together into 2nd chain.

Row 2: (5ch miss a st and slst into next one) 6 times. Last slst is into starting stitch. If you find you can’t miss a st for the last loop that means you have missed two sts at the start. (well that’s what I did sometimes).

Row 3: Trefoil into each loop as in the first pattern – which is (2sc, 3ch, slst, 5ch, slst, 3dc, 2sc) into each loop.

My very small one was done using a 3-3-3 pattern for the trefoil. I did have to pull extra hard on the points to get this one to lie flat.

Again variations in the size of loop and trefoil pattern are possible.

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8 thoughts on “Really Easy Snowflake Patterns

      1. Picots? yes, it is. I’m working from a Leisure Arts book, 99 Snowflakes. I was using the wrong size hook, so the snowflakes aren’t looking as ‘finished’ or neat as I would like.

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