Just add a Hat!

After I made the cowl, I decided to offer it to my daughter as I still have all the hats and scarves that have featured on this blog and much as I love the cowl, I wasn’t sure if I really needed it.

However, I also had about half the yarn left and thought that it would be fun to make a hat to match the cowl. My daughter said that she would like a hat as well so I only hope her head is the same size as mine! 0553-hat

Now when I say match, I wasn’t going to use the same fair isle patterns as the cowl except for the rib. Google is always good for ideas and I copied out some of my favourites.

Traditional fair isle patterns normally have vertical or horizontal symmetry or both but some of the designs on the cowl only have rotational symmetry so I wanted to incorporate some of those. 0548-chart-for-cowlI am very fond of the Greek Key pattern so I included that early on for the hat.

Although I worked on the design on my computer, I copied it out onto squared paper to use a guide.0553-new-pattern

In the event I decided not to use both of the blue zig-zag on green parts of the design and replaced the second with a smaller purple on green section. (I didn’t use the last red and green part at all.)

Now what have I learned in the process of making this hat? Well a couple of things!

Firstly

If you are planning on making a hat it is much easier if you start with a pattern.

I started with the idea that the cowl although it slipped over the head easily was quite snug so the same number of stitches would be a good place to start. I did use a smaller 3.75 (UK 10) circular needle for the rib but it was not until I had got fairly far on and was wondering if now was the time to start decreasing that I thought a pattern might help to make sure I got it right.

So I spent hours trawling through fair isle hat patterns on Ravelry only to find a whole variety of needle sizes and tensions even for DK yarn and a wide range of stitch counts and increasing and decreasing. None of them that fitted in with what I was doing!

I found a decreasing look that I liked in the photographs which involved: skip two stitches, knit one, pass both slipped stitches over.

However I did not like the look so much when I had knitted it so it had to come out. I had also chosen six decreases a round and since it seemed best to have one of these decreases mid back where the row changed, I didn’t like the slight point at the front.

Now life was so busy last week that I didn’t feel up to taking a photograph so you will have to imagine.

So I undid back to before the decreasing (more on this in a moment) and tried again.

This time I chose seven decreases a round – easy as 19 x 7 is only one more than 132.

But then came the moment of truth. The hat was going to be too big! 😦 I was a bit unhappy that I had to remove the purple and green bit that I had thought of as leaves and a sort of parallel to the leaf pattern in the cowl but it had to be done! So using the same method I had used before I decided I would have to reduce the length by a couple of inches.

Here is a quick photograph I took with my phone at Crafty Coffee on Friday when I was just beginning to pull out those two inches. 0553-ready-to-undoSince the method I used is something that worked well. I thought I would mention it for anyone who finds it helpful.

This is the second thing I learned

Risk free way of undoing several rows without doing it stitch by stitch.

I heard (reading US blogs I think) of people putting in ‘life lines’ when they were knitting in case they needed to undo part of it later. I wasn’t sure what they were but it gave me an idea.

I took a needle and a piece of thin string and carefully went under the front part of every stitch on the row I wanted to go back to. (I chose a row where I was only using one colour.) I counted the stitches to make sure I had the right number then took a circular needle and threaded it through the same stitches and counted again. I then felt confident enough to remove the original circular needle. Finally I removed the string. In the photograph you can see how it looked just before I removed the string. I then undid the rows and sure enough when that was done all the stitches were neatly on the needle ready for me to start knitting again.

I added in a couple of rows in blue and then decreased after a red row. Originally I had thought I would just use two or more of the colours as stripes for the top but then I realised that I needed to continue the fair isle patterns to make the top as thick (and warm!) as the rest. 0553-top-of-hat

This time I decreased by a combination of K2tog through back loops and a normal K2tog.

And here are the hat and cowl together. 0553-hat-and-cowl

I still have about a quarter of the wool left but I don’t think it would be enough for mittens!

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Fairisle cowl

I had hoped to have more of this to share with you but last Tuesday having planned an outing with my camera, I went down with the dreaded norovirus. They say one to three days, well I make it at least four! in my case. During this time all I wanted to do was rest with eyes gently closed, and, anyway, I didn’t want to risk contaminating my beautiful cowl.0548-one-third-of-cowlI found the cowl pattern on The Twisted Yarn’s blog HERE and absolutely loved it.

She used all sixteen shades of Stylecraft ‘batik’ yarn but I knew that doing the same would leave me with a lot of leftover yarn, so I calculated that four balls should be plenty. I was rather taken with the look of the ‘batik’.

So I went to a local yarn shop and chose my four favourite shades that I thought would work well together. (Teal, Raspberry, Violet, Sage)

Of course it wasn’t enough to just substitute colours for the sixteen in the original so I sat at my computer with my favourite drawing programme and played around with the colours till I produced a chart I could use. 0548-chart-for-cowlI found I had left one row out but luckily I discovered it! Can you see where? It’s the symmetry gives it away.

After earlier very poor attempts at fairisle type knitting I thought that this was a chance to master it, or at least to see if I could produce something acceptable. I think the batik effect of the yarn is fairly forgiving of irregularity.

I have been working very slowly and have found a way, laying each ball either side of me as I twist the yarn together, of not ending up with a tangle. I felt that my mother had twisted the yarn every stitch and that is what I have tried to do before but, as I can no longer ask my mother, I spoke to someone who said that she thought you only had to catch the yarn every two stitches so that is what I have done. 0548-my-fairisle-reverseHowever not up to my mother’s standard as you shall see below.

For those of you that like a story here is why I am so frustrated by my inability to knit fairisle and similar two colour knitting.

My mother knitted the most beautiful fairisle jumpers for my children 0548-mothers-knitted-jumperThis was my son’s favourite jumper for some years and as he loved it so much, when he grew out of it, my mother made him another in a larger size.

I had wanted to do the same for my grandchildren but all my attempts as this sort of knitting, large or small, have come out with a very irregular pulled look to them.

This morning I remember my mother’s knitting bag that I had inherited and how the lining is always coming adrift. So here is a photograph of the outside – 0548-mothers-fairisleand the reverse. 0548-mothers-fairisle-reverseIt does look as it she was twisting every stitch so I still have a long way to go to achieve that smooth, could almost have been made by a machine, look.

Since I think that the cowl does not look too pulled I will maybe leave mastering the every other stitch method for later.

Now to catch up on all the blogs I haven’t read over the last week!

Birthday scarf

A while ago I was given two 50g balls of red alpaca 4ply wool by a friend as she didn’t have a use for it. What to make which that quantity? I decided that as alpaca is so soft and cuddly that I would make a scarf.

Now originally my plan had been to make it for myself but with someone’s birthday coming up, someone who’s colour is red I decided that it would be a birthday gift.

To give you an idea of the yarn here is what I have left. 0502-Free yarnI think this is enough to make a round the neck cowl for myself! which will keep it safe from the velcro on my coat!

I actually started the scarf a while ago and got about this far. 0502-First tryBut although I liked the rippled edge, I didn’t like the way it had developed an inverted ridge a few inches in. Obviously my bad knitting but I decided to put it aside for a while and maybe try again later.

After the garden had been done, having finished my cushion cover I returned to the scarf and decided to try another simpler pattern. Something easy as I was feeling rather tired.

And so I have been working on it for the last couple of weeks until it reached about 6ft (180cm).

Here it is just off the needles. 0502-Just off the needlesRather naively I had thought that as all the stitches were knit ones rather than purl (thinking garter stitch) that it would lie flat and have no right or wrong side!

Every other row was just knit and that seemed to create what looked like a right side. 0502-Right sideThe alternate rows consisted of yarn overs and k2togs which seemed to give more of a wrong side look. 0502-Wrong sideAnd the scarf tended to curl with the ‘right side’ on the outside!

I suppose there are those who would have blocked it but I was always taught to iron wool knitted items under a damp cloth which is what I did and produced this. 0502-After ironingNot that I think in wear that it will stay flat.

However I once had a very lovely emerald green long holey cottony scarf and that curled up but was none the worse for it.

A New Pair of Trousers

New trousers

Last sumer you may remember I made this top and trousers. Top and trousersThese trousers look alright under a long top but, although ostensibly on the waist, they tended to be tight round the bottom and cut in behind and below so I had to wear them quite low down to be comfortable. In measuring a pair of shop bought comfortable trousers, I realised that the back section of these was much longer and I adapted the pattern to be more that shape by lengthening both front and back pieces and then adding in a wedge to make the back even longer.Adjusted pattern

But I cut out the material for the second pair when it was getting too cold to wear them so I put them aside to sew up some time ‘during the winter’ of course good intentions and all that but when I cut out some material to make a bean bag I decided that I really had to make the trousers first or maybe I would never get around to it!

Those of you who are good at dressmaking can now have a good laugh and feel smug!

So last week I settled down to start. With the previous dressmaking I had intended to try using the electric machine that I inherited from my mother now that it had a new motor but couldn’t get it to work. Over the winter I decided that maybe all it needed was some oil – (What gave me the idea that modern machines don’t need oiling I don’t know!)

So, using the electric machine, I started on Monday and Tuesday, when I had a little time, attaching the pockets but really settled down to the making on Wednesday.

However it became a very stressful experience and I didn’t have a happy smile on my face like the suns on the trousers! 0478-Happy sunsIn fact I ended up not taking my normal care when making clothes just wanting to get it finished.

I realised on the Wednesday that the machine was skipping stitches not only when zig-zagging but also with the straight stitching. I wondered whether it had something to do with my stop/start approach to stitching but it was doing it in the middle of a run as well. I tried re-threading the machine several times, taking the bobbin section apart that is such a fiddle to put back together and in the end got so fed up that I changed over to my old manual Singer that I am much happier using.

However that was skipping stitches too and I even sewed one seam twice in the hopes that the skipped bits would occur in different places!

Then I remembered that I had a reel of cotton thread that was the right colour so I needn’t have bought the synthetic one and tried that instead but no difference. Last of all in desperation I changed to my only other Singer needle that was a thicker one and that seemed to do the trick. (Not that it was the right size for the weight of fabric!)

Exhausted, I managed to finish the trousers that evening.

Here is a closer look. Closer lookThese are still only just up to my waist but they are a much more comfortable fit. I also managed to get the stitching for the three rows of elastic of equal width this time!

And here is a photo of the zig-zag stitching on the electric machine. Electric edge finishI had thought it would be so much better than using the attachment that my mother had bought when I was a child to use with the Singer. Zig-zag attachmentBut here is how this went (when I had changed the needle.) Singer edge finishYou can see where I did the double seam before I had solved my problem!

Not sure of I can face any more dressmaking after this but I will be having a go this week at making the bean bag but with my manual Singer this time!

Jumper/Bed jacket completed

For those of you who just want photographs of how it turned out scroll down to the bottom for those who enjoy reading about my trials and tribulations read on.

BIG TIP: For your first attempt at a pattern with cabling don’t choose a pattern with mistakes in it! (Though, now I have finished it, I am beginning to wonder if the mistakes have come in because of the person who knitted the jumper in the picture from the pattern rather than the pattern itself.)

Let me explain

Can you see below that the diagram in the pattern is not the same as the picture  with regard to the way the front bands overlap. Overlap

You will see that if I have a photograph I don’t bother with diagrams except for measurements.

Now the instructions said:-

“LOWER BODY
Continue in pattern until work measures 3[3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5, 3.5] inches from underarm, ending with a WS row. Place last 25 sts of row (right front band) on double-point needle, and hold behind first 25 sts of row (left front band).”

I would take left front band to mean the left-hand side of ones body as that is normally what patterns mean but it looks as if the designer meant the left hand side as you look at it.

The person who knitted the jumper interpreted the instructions as I did, though when I wore it and thought about adding a button it felt as if they overlapped the wrong way! Which is to say they overlap the man’s way rather than the normal woman’s way.

Now the cables on the bands as shown in the picture are mirrored Mirroringand that is certainly how they look best. BUT maybe the designer hadn’t thought about that and really meant them to be the same which would eliminate all the problems I had with the collar – as described below.

Picking up the stitches from the provisional cast on was really quite easy and even picking up the stitches at the sides went much better than usual.

But when I got just beyond the cable row I realised that I was going to have to reverse the cabling for the last one as I had done before because it looked wrong and had a strange twist.

A few rows later after the second cable row I examined it again and realised that by reversing the last cable I had created a different sort of twist in the pattern on the right side. Had it been on the wrong side it would have been okay to anyone except a perfectionist because it wouldn’t have shown.

Going back to comments I had read on Ravelry I realised that other people had had this problem too but as I was new to cabling I found it very hard to get my mind around what was happening and to work out how to correct it.

I spent hours thinking about it as I went about my other activities.

I have a passion, almost an obsession, about symmetry and so I wanted whatever twist or discrepancy there might be to be symmetrical. This was hard with seven cable panels as  I did not think I could work the mirroring in the middle of the cabling. But then I realised that the neck-line was quite big and I didn’t want it to be drafty in the middle of winter so I worked out that if I reduced the original number of stitches by sixteen I could have six panels three one way and three the other and symmetry!

So out with the needles and rip out row after row till almost where I picked up the stitches. Now for my first pattern row I knitted two together sixteen times evenly across the back part and was set.

This gave a perfect looking arrangement on the right side Right side of collarwith an extra kppk on the underside of the collar, in the centre back where it will not show. Under side of collar

If you scrolled down from the beginning start again here!

Here is the finished bed jacket. (No, I still haven’t bothered to iron it!)Finished bed jacketI decided that I would like a button to close up the neck on chilly nights so, not having anything suitable in my button jars I looked up how to crochet a button.

I had these plastic washers Nylon washersthat I had bought to give the smallest to my son when he lost one from his bathroom light! I thought they would make a firmer button.

I used the largest ring (10mm) and a 4.5mm hook first as a trial then changed to the smallest ring (6mm) and a 3mm hook for the final button. Crochet buttonsI even added a shank on the back. Button shankHere is the bed jacket with the button done up. Bed jacket with button done upAnd here I am wearing it. I thought I should photograph it over a nightie to give the right look, though it is much to hot for a jumper let alone a winter nightie at present!Wearing bed jacket(Note to self don’t pull on it and get it out of shape!)

and done up. Wearing bed jacket done upIt will be lovely and warm and comfortable to wear. Shame we are having a heatwave at present 😉

(The temperature has dropped a little since I wrote this Monday.)

Jumper update

I have been plugging away at my bed jacket jumper and managed to finish the main body – with pockets! and one sleeve.

(I have been taking the temperature scarf to Crafty Coffee on Fridays and am continuing with the crochet teaching.)

Here are a few photographs.

First the pocket.

PocketThe pocket as seen in the round. Pocket flatThe sleeve (next two taken in a mirror! – tricky, so best I could do.)Sleeveand my hand in the pocket. Hand in the pocketI haven’t ironed it or anything so it will look slightly better when I have finished.

I have to say at this point that although I have been reasonably happy with Drops yarns in the past and this one seemed okay when I made the waistcost, I can’t really recommend it for something like this.

Firstly I have had lots of little bits of black fluff caught up in the yarn at random intervals that I have had to pull out. I also had those frequent fluffy bits where one strand had broken and been tied. I also have had quite a few joins in the balls which are only 50g weight. (I don’t remember it being so bad when I made my waistcoat, maybe it is this dye lot.)

The yarn is beautifully soft and thick and will be comfortable to wear but this has made it harder to sew in the ends securely and when you are knitting in the round so don’t have seams to do it in and worse still when there are so many ends because of breaks in the yarn and the balls not being very long it is not at all satisfactory. I am glad this will be bed jacket so no-one will see the imperfections.

This is all over and above the fact that my crochet is probably better than my knitting!

I might have finished the second sleeve by now but my work in the garden has really hurt my wrists. Before this I was beginning to think that there was really not much wrong with them but now they hurt a lot of the time and I am having to go easy on knitting and even more crochet (the crochet circle really upset them!). Ever so frustrating.

Oh Woops!

In January I showed you how I was getting on with a temperature scarf in this POST.

I had found a web site that provided graphs of local weather information including temperature spread over the whole day. Here is a typical graph from 3rd March. Typical graphNow I had noticed that some days the temperature I found on the graph was a little higher than that predicted in the weather forecast but that is british weather forecasts for you!

But on the 10th March I got a shock! The graph for the 9th March appeared to give me a mid-day temperature of just over 20 deg C. There was no way the temperature had been that high the day before, so what could be wrong?

Then I realised……………………….

If you look at the graph for that day Tell-tale graph(or the previous one) you will see that there are four coloured lines representing Humidity (blue), Rainfall (red), Temperature (green) and Dew Point (pink). Time is along the x-axis.

Of course I am used to the y-axis being along the left hand side and so I just looked at the numbers nearest the graph on the left without thinking.

BUT NO! that was wrong there were separate scales for humidity and rainfall on the left and the temperature/dew point one was on the right. All colour coded so I should have realised!

All this time I had been reading off the wrong numbers. So I had to undo my scarf back to the first two white rows and start again. Yes, even the first of January had been wrong.

Here is a comparison of the piece I showed you before and the re-knitted January. (Yes the turquoise looks different in each photograph! blue is a tricky colour.)Comparison In the original: February and the beginning of March were all very similar to January but now January is looking colder which is what you would expect.

I started copying out the new temperatures, a few at a time, straight away but wanted to concentrate on finishing my jumper. However since I started a bad cold just before Easter and have been feeling under the weather the last ten days, once I got to a tricky bit of my jumper I switched to re-knitting the temperature scarf and have now got this far. January to MarchThat’s up to the end of March, so only a few days to go to be up to date. I am pleased to see that with the slipped stitches it lies naturally flat. It is also more interesting than when I was choosing the wrong readings!

[The bits of thread you can see mark the month ends.]

Bed jacket jumper update

I have been mostly concentrating on finishing my bed jacket these last couple of weeks, while leaving some time for games and jigsaw!

I have just finished the back as far as the pockets. Back of jumper with pocketsThinking about it, I could have done the pockets while still knitting in the round but I think they may lie flatter this way. I have just moved on to working the pockets on the front half. Front of jumperJust the first row. (The gathered look is partly where the cable overlaps but mostly the short cable.)

This is a finished pocket that I made as an experiment to check I had the right idea. Pocket frontand how it looks from the back before it is sewn up. Pocket back
The pockets will be a bit smaller than the ones on the original fleece but big enough I think. I don’t want them to pull the jumper out of shape.

I have been a bit disappointed with the quality of the yarn this time around.

It is still soft and lovely to knit with but not only has it had bits of black, or sometimes white, yarn twisted in with it and a join but there have been several places where the yarn has a fluffy bit like this Fluffy bitI have managed to pull them to the back because when knitting in a circle the last thing one wants to do is have lots of joins, so I didn’t cut the yarn to remove them. At least as a bed jacket it won’t be much on show!

It was worst in one ball so I don’t know if I should just have tried a different one.

Starting a new knitting project

Many years ago (enough years for my mother to be horrified that I still have it) I bought a fleece jumper. At the time I was size 10/12 rather than 14/16 (No point explaining what this means as even in this country sizes have changed.)

However this jumper was only available in size 14/16 but it was blue and only £5 so I bought it. Old fleece Because it was loose it was so comfortable and when it began to show its age it was relegated to housework attire. Eventually though I realised that it was the ideal thing to wear in bed when sitting up reading or eating breakfast. So now it does double duty but it occured to me that if I could find the right pattern I could make a properly designated garment.

I have looked on and off for one, the sticking point being the neckline, but eventually I found this http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEwinter08/PATTamused.php that was close enough. It is also on Ravelry but the link leads here.

I will replace the ribbing at the bottom of body and sleeves with a few rows of garter stitch to keep it loose. I will also reduce the depth of the neckline to be more like my fleece jumper.

This is the yarn I bought that I have showed you before. Yarn for jumperI thought it was a good opportunity to try something with cables but it is worth noting that there is a mistake in the pattern.

Luckily, as I am new to cables and I wanted to check that the provisional cast-on0446-Disposable cast-on was going to work seamlessly with the collar, I tried a small trial. This showed that there was a problem which with a little experimenting and a few comments about the pattern on a forum I solved.

(Basically – in case you are thinking of trying it yourself – the cable rib needs to be mirrored so instead of using four k2, p2 stitches for each end of the row, you use k2, p2 the first time and p2, k2 the second. I am sure if you ever try the pattern you will see what I mean.

But to make it even clearer – on the end of the row where you get – P2, k2, p2, C8L, C8R, k3. You need to read it as P2, k2, C8L, C8R, p2, k3. Where C8L & C8R are the cables worked with p2, k2 instead of k2, p2.

I also noticed that towards the end of the Continue Yoke Shaping section you are given “Repeat these 2 rows -[-, 5, 7, 23, 27, 31] times more. -[-, 308, 324, 372, 404, 436] sts.”

This obviously should be Repeat these 2 rows -[-, 15,17, 23, 27, 31] times more. -[-, 308, 324, 372, 404, 436] sts.

This is as far as I have got. Jumper to date I am finding it a bit slow going as it is easy to make a mistake with the increases when you are watching TV! There has been quite a bit of dropping stitches and picking them up again or undoing.

Luckily I am also working on a crochet project which I can take when I am being sociable!

 

 

Devising a temperature scarf!

I expect it’s no surprise that I was unable to avoid being distracted! despite having a full project list.

You see, I went on Ravelry and found that someone had left me a message asking what colours I had used for my spectrum blanket because they wanted to make a ‘temperature blanket’. I sent them the LINK and wondered what a temperature blanket might be.

When I found out I was quite intrigued and the idea appealed to my scientific mind. Of course I don’t need or want to make another blanket at present so I tried to put the thought out of my mind. However it kept coming back until a little voice in my head said “you don’t need a blanket and it would be too much of a commitment but what about a scarf? You can never have too many scarves!”.

Now the planning thinking about it meant making four different decisions.

Stitch

Since I am planning a lot of knitting my first thought was to make it a crochet project but what sort of stitch? Now I would like to try the ‘V’ stitch that I have heard other people talking about lately (though I now realise the double sort is what I am using for the edge of my blanket) so I tried out a couple of versions. V stitchBut I rejected it because I wanted a more solid look and unless I only recorded the temperature every other day it would be a crazily long scarf.

By now I realised that only dcs (US-scs) were small enough to allow me to crochet one row a day. I like linen stitch very much and that was my first thought. Linen stitchBut you notice that when you only have one row of a colour it is discontinuous, so I rejected that too!

Then I tried a simple plain row of dcs and that was okay Dcsexcept that when you crochet back and forward some rows appear narrower than others. That was scientifically unattractive so I turned to knitting. (These colours are unlikely to be adjacent on the actual scarf!)

I won’t bore you with my thought on different knitting stitches but in the end I decided that plain stocking stitch was probably best and that I had a choice between a scarf that was a bit less than 4ft or 8ft. 4ft is a bit short for a scarf so I chose the latter which meant two rows per day.

Shape

Now the one thing that had worried me all along was the ends.

After my original thoughts on crochet scarves and making samples I decided to short cut the process and go on Google and Ravelry. Here I discovered that other people had also chosen to make a scarf rather that a blanket and I found various crochet ones including one that used linen stitch!

I also found THIS. Here the idea was to make a cowl rather than a scarf but the clever idea was to knit it on circular needles so all the ends would be inside and so didn’t need to be sewn in. And the icing on the cake was that on the first of the two rows in each colour she slipped the first and first of the second half stitches so both edges would look the same. I had considered knitting in a circle to avoid ends but hadn’t been able to decide where to position the mismatch where you change from one colour to another.

I made a sample to see if sixty stitches would be about right Knittingand I got a width of about five inches which seemed quite enough.

She was using Sports weight yarn but since I have always thought that DK was a bit thin for a really warm scarf two sided DK seemed good.

Temperature

The big question having decided the basics was which temperature did you use? since it can vary quite a bit over twenty-four hours. Do you choose maximum or minimum or an average of the two? My inclination was to go for daytime and therefore maximum temperature.

Now I did briefly think of buying a Max and Min thermometer and putting it in the garden but in the end decided to let other people do the measurements for me.

However by the time I had realised that weather forecasts only tell you what the temperature is expected to be, not what it was, I had found that the nearest weather station at Southampton Airport not only gives out historic data but also graphs showing the change from hour to hour, I therefore decided that I would use the temperature at midday from their graphs.

Colours

Now that I knew the sort of temperatures I would be dealing with it was time to choose the colour range.

A lot of people had chosen to change colour every 5 deg F. Now I knew that living in the UK, I would find temperatures quoted in centigrade and chosing a new colour every 3 deg C seemed to work out nicely.

Some people had just used the basic rainbow colours, other people had all sorts of choices, but I decided that my spectrum colours would do as well as any other and so I decided to use them, though I omitted ‘shrimp’ as I thought it fitted least well. Temperature chartI decided that the temperature round here is unlikely to drop much below zero at midday. So -2 to 0 is purple. (If the temperature does go any lower I will use black.)

My temperature range goes up to 39 deg C just to be on the safe side but actually I will be quite happy not to need to use the darkest red.

Conclusion

So that is that and here is the scarf finished up to yesterday’s temperature. Scarf up to 27th As you can see the temperature in January has been fairly stable.

This is a good project to use up oddments of yarn though I may end up having to buy some if I run out of any particular colour.