My bookmarks in use!

Having discovered that the latest book I got out from the library is a large hardback book I decided to move on from my pineapple bookmark that I have been using lately to one of my Celtic ones: Pineapple bookmark on bookthe most popular one with the purple edging and pointy corners. Celtic cross edged bookmarkWith the pineapple bookmark the pages don’t quite lie flat where it is. Pineapple bookmark in bookBut as I suspected with the Celtic one they gape rather more. Similarly with my latest version of the slip stitch one. Celtic edged bookmark in bookNow with pointed corners! Celtic slip stitched bookmark in bookEven my plain Celtic cross lifts the pages a little more. Original Celtic cross bookmarkNow with cord and tassel. Origianl Celtic cross bookmark in bookAnd of course my latest Celtic cross bookmark. Celtic cross bookmark(Not yet with added cord) operates more like the other embellished Celtic ones.Celtic cross bookmark in bookJust thought it was useful to give an idea of their relative thickness! Though when in use in the middle of the book they show slightly less!

Celtic Knot Bookmark Pattern

There is a diagram to help with interleaving the ribbon together to make the bookmarks at the bottom. This is probably the hardest part!

*****     *****     *****     *****     *****

I would suggest using #10 crochet cotton and a 1.25mm hook for starting chain, then 1.25mm or 1mm hook for working stitches or whatever size produces a firm but not impossibly tight result. I crochet fairly tightly and I think I used a 1.25 hook throughout. Using a larger hook for the starting chain can make it easier to crochet into.

***The stitches need to be worked into the loop at the back of the starting chain. This is method 4 in my tutorial on four ways to work into a chain.***

Slip stitches or Edge should be worked in a contrasting colour to main strip.

I am writing these patterns in similar way to how I wrote the Celtic Cross pattern.

A number means to work that many stitches, one into each chain. The V and A represent using multiple stitches as described below.

These are in UK terms. [US equivalent is in brackets and italics where needed.]

Bookmark to have edge added

Bookmark with edge

V = 5trs into one chain. [V = 5dcs into one chain.]

A= 5trs tog. A= [5dcs tog.]

Outer turn = V 1 V

Inner turn = A 1 A

Making main ribbon

Start with at least 395 chain. (Having a few extra will allow for miscounting or missing a stitch by mistake, or my calculation being wrong!)

Start by working tr into 4th ch from hook – equals first two trs. [Start by working dc into 4th ch from hook – equals first two dcs.]

12 (outer turn) 10 V 15 A 15 V 15 A 15 V 10

(outer turn) 15 A 15 V 15 A 15 V 15

(inner turn) 10 A 15 V 15 A 15 V 15 A 10

(inner turn) 15 V 15 A 15 V 15 A 3

Edge

Work along both sides.

Can work 3 or 4ch or just extend thread so as not to need to cut thread when reversing direction at end of strip as these will be hidden by join.

Start at beginning of strip.

Instructions:

1ch, then dc into each tr, except for inner and outer turns. These as below.

Outer turn: into first 5tr work dc, dc, htr, tr, dtr, Then trtr into central stitch, then reverse into next five: dtr, tr, htr, dc, dc.

Inner turn: miss out stitch either side of central stitch. That is a dc as before and after.

US – Instructions:

[1ch, then sc into each dc, except for inner and outer turns. These as below.

Outer turn: into first 5dc work sc, sc, hdc, dc, tr, Then dtr into central stitch, then reverse into next five: tr, dc, hdc, sc, sc.

Inner turn: miss out stitch either side of central stitch.That is a sc as before and after.]

This bookmark came out approximately 7 inches by 1.5 inches when I made it. (18cm x 4cm). It is the largest as you can see in this photograph. Bookmark comparison

Although the bookmark above was the most popular, for completeness, I have continued with instruction for the bookmark with a slip stitch embellishment but included options for either having my original rounded ends or pointed ends, as these seemed popular.

Bookmark to have slip stitches added

V = 5trs into one chain. [V = 5dcs into one chain.]

A= 5trs tog. A= [5dcs tog.]

For pointed ends Bookmark with slip stitches and pointed ends

Outer turn = (tr, tr, tr, dtr, trtr) into first ch, then quadtr into next, (trtr, dtr, tr, tr, tr) into third ch

Inner turn = worked over 3ch but working 5 sts tog as above for first and third and a quadtr in the middle.

For rounded ends Bookmark with slip stitches and round ends

Outer turn = V 1 V

Inner Turn = A 1 A

Making main ribbon

Start with at least 333 chain. (Having a few extra will allow for miscounting or missing a stitch by mistake, or my calculation being wrong!)

Start by working tr into 4th ch from hook – equals first two trs.

10 (outer turn) 8 V 12 A 12 V 12 A 12 V 8

(outer turn) 12 A 12 V 12 A 12 V 12

(inner turn) 8 A 12 V 12 A 12 V 12 A 8

(inner turn) 12 V 12 A 12 V 12 A 2

Adding slip stitches

Work a slip stitch into each stitch along top of trebles (including other stitches used for turns  where applicable) then 2ch or extend thread for a turn and work slip stitches into the stitch equivalents of the starting chain.

This bookmark with rounded ends came out approximately 5.5 inches by 1 inch when I made it. (14cm x 3cm). And with pointed ends was 6.25 inches by 1 inch. (16cm x 3cm)

Interleaving the Ribbon to make the Bookmark

Interleaving diagramUsing the above diagram as a guide find the turn that is around the middle of the ribbon. This is the one in the bottom left hand corner of the diagram.

Follow the green and orange coloured parts that extend from this turn and interleave them as shown.

Then fold in the green/red turn and the orange/blue turn.

I then turn it so the these turns are at the top and fold in the remaining lengths.

There is an asterisk showing where the final join is.

Join neatly so it doesn’t show outside the overlap.

Pull into shape, this may take a while, and then stiffen if you want to, although they will be fairly stiff anyway if you have made the ribbon firm enough.

What about a Celtic Coaster style Placemat?

This does include a universal pattern at the bottom as long as you don’t mind a bit of Maths!

Having had a few people interested in the possibility of a placemat in similar style to my Celtic Coaster, being the person I am, I wasn’t able to stop considering it.

My first thought was that it would be a lot of work and very fiddly. However……….

Imagining a placemat made in a similar way to the coaster as being made of similar width strips. I wondered how many that would need to be and in the end decided that about sixteen would equal a foot. (Not sure I am right here but it was a good place to start.)

Now the number of separate strips needed for a piece of Celtic plaitwork depends on the whether, on counting the number of bumps on each side (including the corners), the two numbers have a common factor.

No common factor: one piece (as in my odd numbered Celtic bookmarks.)

If there is a common factor that determines how many separate strips there are.

Two examples of plaitwork
four and six have a common factor of two whereas three and five have no common factor except one.

For a square, both sides are the same so you need that number of strips. Hence the style of my coasters.

I tend to think of placemats as being rectangular so having decided on sixteen colours for one foot (30cm). I chose to draw out one that was 16 x 32 bumps.

Now to be similar to my coasters each colour must be different. Sixteen was about the number of colours I used for my spectrum blanket so I coloured each strip in similar colours and produced this. 32 x 16, 16 colour arrangementNow one of the things I wanted with my coasters was for no adjacent overlaps to be the same colour.

I think, if you look closely, you will see that this breaks this rule in a vertical strip down the centre.

Of course a square placemat would not. square 16 colour arrangement(Each strip of the 16 x 32 placemat would need about 360 chains and there would be sixteen of them to weave together. That is a similar number of chains to those needed for each of my bookmarks.)

Now one person had asked about a matching coaster and obviously this could not match with all those colours so I looked to see what would happen if you repeated the colours of my first (non rainbow) coaster original coaster(As represented in my drawing programme) computer version of coasterand got this. 32 x 16, 4 coloursEven more matching adjacent overlaps.

Even if it was square. 16 x 16 square 4 coloursSome people might like the patterns it gives rise to but it wasn’t really what I wanted.

So I decided to work out how to make a bigger version of my coaster with the same shape strips but just wider.

As it was just a trial effort, I used some of my acrylic yarn that I had no specific plans for, as the cotton yarn is more expensive and I wasn’t sure I had enough anyway. Acrylic is much stretchier though and so needs more TLC to get it into shape. However I hope it will give you the general idea of what is possible.

For symmetry I decided to just make the strips three times wider and see how large it ended up. This would mean nine trebles (US-dcs) for each cross-over and over one hundred chains for each strip.

The thing that surprised me was to find that when adding further rows it takes two added rows to equal the width of one row on its own. So I ended up with five rows and not three! (And 114 starting chains see formula below.) Placemat and coasterSince each strip is approximately the same size you should need something less than 25g of each colour. As the whole thing weighed just under 85g. More of course if it was cotton. I used a 4.5mm hook for the starting chain and then a 4mm hook for the stitches. I tend to crochet quite tightly.

Here it is with a plate. Placemat and coaster with plate

Although I was doing all this primarily for other people it has proved quite useful, as one of my first thoughts was to use plaitwork to make a cushion cover and now I have the tools to plan such a cover – watch this space!

Some Maths!

For a square coaster, placemat etc.

If N is the number of bumps down the side (including the corners), N is also the number of strips and so also the number of colours needed if each strip is a different colour.

As an aside: I think that N is best if it is even, as if it is odd you get a square shape in the middle which I think stands out too much.

3 colour coaster
This was the one that was too loose but I think you can get the idea

For an even number the first half of the shapes are the same as the second half and they blend together more. four colour coasterHowever the formula works for all values of N.

In all the following (US readers read ‘double crochet’ where I say ‘treble’)

Then for each strip if only one row wide:

The number of chains to start = 12(N-1) + 6. This includes the two extra chain needed for the first treble equivalent.

For thicker strips:

If m is the number of rows. I think m works best if it is odd from the point of view of symmetry. (If you chose an even numbered m you will have to adjust for any halves you get. I suggest rounding down as crochet is stretchy.)

The number of chains to start = 12[1 +(m-1)/2](N-1) + 6. This includes the two extra chain needed for the first treble equivalent.

Hope you remember your BODMAS!

I have even come up with a formula pattern for any size you might want to make.

For strips only one row wide:

Work the following, using values of ‘t’ from 1 to N.

(Following on from my remark about an even N, when N is even you can just make two each of the first N/2 shapes, which is what I did for the coaster.)

Treble into 4th chain from hook, 5tr into one chain,

Then one treble into each chain for 6(t-1) chains. (Yes this gives zero for the first ‘t’), 5trs into one chain.

Then one treble into each chain for 6(n-t) chains. 5trs into one chain.

Then one treble into each chain for 6(t-1) chains. 5trs into one chain.

Then one treble into each chain for 6(n-t)-2 chains. (This corrects for the first two trebles made at the beginning which will give a join that is underneath.)

A more general formula that will also work for thicker strips:

If N is the number of strips (colours) and m is the number of rows.

The first rows come from:-

Work the following, using values of ‘t’ from 1 to N-1. Then repeat t=1.

Treble into 4th chain from hook, Then one treble into each chain for [(m-1)/2] chains, 5tr into one chain,

Then one treble into each chain for 6(m+1)(t-1)/2 chains. (Yes this gives zero for the first ‘t’), 5trs into one chain.

Then one treble into each chain for 6(m+1)(n-t)/2 chains. 5trs into one chain.

Then one treble into each chain for 6(m+1)(t-1)/2 chains. 5trs into one chain.

Then one stitch into each chain for (6(m+1)(n-t)-(m+3))/2 chains. (This corrects for the extra trebles made at the beginning which will give a join that is underneath. If when you put the plait together the join is not underneath then you have the strip the wrong way up. I always presume that the right side is the front of the first row.)

For the rows after that work one tr into each tr except for the turns. (Remember to start with 3ch, miss the first stitch, and work the last tr into the top of the 3ch on the previous row.)

For 180deg turns, on the second row I worked into the 10 stitches of the turn as follows – (tr, tr, 2tr, 2tr, 2tr, 2tr, 2tr, 2tr, tr, tr) (16)

On the third row I worked into the central sixteen stitches of the above as follows – (tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, 2tr, tr, 2tr, 2tr, tr, 2tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, tr). (22)

Hopefully you can see a pattern here. I felt it was similar to working a circle, (or see below.)

For 90deg turns I simply worked 5trs into the central treble of the five of the previous row and one treble into all the others.

Pattern for 180deg turns continued

How the stitches increased for the fourth and fifth rows.

Over 22 stitches: (tr, tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, 2tr, 2tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, tr, tr.) (28)

Over 28 stitches: (tr, tr, tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, tr, 2tr, 2tr, tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, tr, 2tr, tr, tr, tr, tr, tr.) (34)

Caveat: Although I have checked and double checked my figures and formulae, I do make mistakes, and if anyone thinks they have found one, I am always grateful to be told so I can investigate.

 

 

 

 

 

Easter Giveaway

Following on from my making lots of Celtic crosses I have decided to offer three of them as a Giveaway. Three Celtic crossesOne each to three people.

This is open to anyone anywhere.

All you have to do is comment at the bottom of this post saying which of the three you would prefer.

I think that all would be suitable as bookmarks though the plain red cross is the thinnest.

If you would like me to add a cord and tassel as I have done to this one that I made for myself Celtic cross with tasseljust say so in your comment.

The Giveaway is open till the Second Sunday of Easter (23rd April) when I will choose the winners.

Celtic Cross revisited

Having made variations of the Celtic plaitwork bookmarks I decided to revisit my pattern for a Celtic Cross and see if I could do the same.

I notice that in my original pattern I used my 1.25mm hook. This time I have also been using a 1mm hook and later tried what I believed to be one that was slightly smaller again, though not by much.

The first thing I did was to add slip stitches to the edges. Celtic crosses with added slip stitchesLike with the bookmarks this does make the cross rather thick, maybe even thicker. I made the one with the purple stitches first and thought that it would maybe be better if the upright was longer so I increased the number of stitches in that part and made the one with the red.

Then of course I had to try one with a coloured edge.

This time I pretty much doubled the stitches for each section and came up with this. Celtic cross with purple edgingAlthough the cross is about the same height as the bookmark one. Above cross compared to bookmarkIt feels too large to be used as a bookmark and I think I will hang it up on a wall somewhere in the house.

I decided to try using #20 thread instead of #10 but I made a mistake and used the #10 red for the edging (which is a shame as I have lots of #20 red!) Two edged crossesThis would be useable as a bookmark or for a wall and in fact using the thicker cotton for the edge made it firmer. I am not sure what size hook I used as it was one of the ones I inherited from my mother. In those days each hook maker seems to have had their own system of numbering and I couldn’t work out what would be the metric equivalent.

I then tried making one of the original plain ones, still in what I thought was #20 cotton, so it came out smaller and a little firmer than the original. Two plain crossesI actually think that the smaller size hook is an improvement. I was previously using the smaller of the size hooks recommended on the label.

I have stiffened all the crosses with spray starch.

The original does seem to be the best for a bookmark.

I also wanted to examine the pattern more closely and see if I was choosing the right numbers of stitches so I worked a trefoil knot.Trefoil knotThis seemed to fit together just right!

I then went on to consider where I was putting the join, as although it should have come behind the circle it seemed to have a tendency to slip towards the next over part and so become visible. I am therefore adjusting my original pattern slightly to improve it.

Using my slightly adjusted pattern and some multi-coloured thread I made another cross. Multi-coloured Celtic cross

I am not sure which I like best but I unfortunately I think the plain ones work best as bookmarks.

Celtic Bookmarks

Ever since someone put a photograph of one of my Celtic coasters on Pinterest I have had about three weeks of hundreds of people every day coming to look at the pattern. Even now it seems to be over one hundred.

I know that a thread bookmark will appeal to far fewer people but it did make me think that it might be worth revisiting my Celtic bookmarks.

My original bookmark was this.Original Celtic bookmark(I can’t find it at present so it is probably keeping a place in a book somewhere!)

I did find that it was a bit floppy even when sprayed with starch so this time I decided to move away from my original idea of choosing four stitches for a crossover point and used the three stitches that I used for the coasters to ensure there were no gaps.

This gave me. New Celtic bookmarkI found that this was naturally stiffer and was probably not worth starching.

If you look closer I think you can see that the white part shows you the ‘right’ side of the crochet whereas the red shows the ‘wrong’ side. I quite liked this as it means that the bookmark doesn’t itself have a ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ side and the pattern for both parts is the same.

However I did sit down and work out a pattern for the second piece so that you could have both pieces showing the ‘right’ side.

When I created the original I liked the idea of choosing to make a configuration that needed two pieces.

[For Celtic plaits this width, there are only two main possibilities: that of two strands or one. More about the variations at the end for those who may be interested.]

However as the corners at the side come in pairs, the colours were not as separate as I might have liked so I decided to see what could be done with a version that came in one piece.

[It might be worth mentioning, even now, that if you count the right angled corners down the side and this is an even number you will get two separate strands and if it is an odd number you will always get one.]

I had chosen eight corners for the original bookmark as I thought that it gave the right proportions for a bookmark and so I decided to chose nine for my one piece bookmark.

This is what the strip looks like when it is finished.Crochet stripI thought that a totally plain bookmark would be boring and wouldn’t show off the plaitwork to best effect and so I decided to add a dc (US-sc) edging. I had increased the number of stiches per crossing back to four.

(This didn’t work with this strip as it still made it to wide to fold together easily so I took it off and tried adding slip stitches.)

This gave me the red and white bookmark in this photo.Two Celtic bookmarks with added slip stitchesI thought that this was reminiscent of this style of plaitwork in my book. Celtic plaitworkHowever I still wanted to try a dc edging so I increased the number of stitches for a crossing to five. (I made a slight adjustment to the ends too.)

This gave me the following. Celtic bookmark with purple edgingwhich is larger but I rather liked.

Here is a size comparison with some of the many bookmarks that I own. Bookmark comparisonThe leather bookmark on the left is rather large, more suitable for a large book like a bible, but I often use the two papyrus ones in my library books; so you can see that they are all useable.

Of course these bookmarks are twice as thick as my other crochet bookmarks (Find them HERE) because of the crossing over and in fact when you add the slip stitches that makes them slightly thicker again. Still useable I think.

Now before you leave off reading I would like to ask a couple of questions.

  • Which bookmark do you like best? (If you like any!)
  • Do you think it is worth publishing the pattern for any of them? If so which ones?

Thank you!

More about the different types of plaits

Really you can think of there being four different types of plait of this width which depend on the number of right-angled corners up the side.

The two odd ones of the four are really the same but with an even number they do show subtle differences, as you can see in this picture. Drawings of different plaits

There are two main differences.

One

If the even number is divisible by four there are same number of corners of each colour on both sides. If the number is not divisible by four there is an extra pair of each colour on opposite sides.

Two

From a crochet point of view it makes a difference to the 180 deg turn-around points.

The dark line represent your initial chain and as you can see for the number divisible by four the chain is on the inside of all the turn-around points.

Where the number is not divisible by four the chain is inside for one and outside for the other. It is worth noting that this also happens for the odd numbered ones where you get one of each, each end.

Also note

The extra picture at the bottom (compare with top left) is to highlight the fact that these plaits do have a handedness and although I have chosen one of them that the same piece of crochet could be used to make either. Though you would want to put the join in a different place!

 

Celtic Napkin Ring pattern

The light has been very bad lately, with the odd bits of brightness at inconvenient moments, or I would have shown you my blanket at the half way point. So finding a little bit of better light I quickly took the photographs for this tutorial.

I used DK (US worsted weight) cotton and a 3.5mm hook. If you crochet loosely you may need a smaller one.

You need to crochet all stitches into the back loop of the the chain so both edges look the same on the right side. (One such loop is shown in black below).Back loop of chain

To start make 50 chain and then make the first treble (US – dc) into the back of the fourth chain from the hook.

After the 50 chain the pattern is

4 tr, 5tr tog, 9tr, 5tr into 1ch, 9tr, 5tr tog, 9tr, 5tr into 1ch, 4tr.

US version

4 dc, 5dc tog, 9dc, 5dc into 1ch, 9dc, 5dc tog, 9dc, 5dc into 1ch, 4dc.

Make four pieces as above in four different colours. Four strips For the tutorial part of this post I used the same colours as I used originally. If you want to use different colours you might find it helpful to copy what I have written and replace my colour names with yours.

The first thing to do is to join the red piece in a ring. Red strip joined All the joins will be hidden but it is only 3 trs (US-dcs) that will be hidden so it is best if you finish the ends up and down the trs (US-dcs) rather than along the edges.

I hope it will be possible for me only use the term treble from now on and for US readers to understand that to them it means the dcs.

Now you thread the blue piece through. You need to secure this in place at each overlap or underlap, as you go, unless you are very deft with your hands.

I have found small safety pins work better that dressmaking pins though if you didn’t have a lot of safety pins you could stitch each overlap with a piece of contrasting thread that you remove later.

The blue starts by overlapping the red just to the right of one of the upper points. This overlap consists of the three trs next to the corner 5tr into 1ch. Pin or secure this overlap. First blue overlap Now align the blue strip along the side of the red one passing under the red this time just next to the corner and secure. First blue underlap Continue along the side of red strip going over the next time then under the final time and securing each overlap.

Unless you are very unsure this is a good time to join the ends of the blue strip together. If you were being very cautious you should still join the two ends together maybe just with a knotted loop of contrasting thread at each edge.

When I made it the first time I distributed the joins around the circle but here you can see the joins in the red and blue strips as neat as I could make them. Joins will only show on the inside. Red and blue joins Now you add the green strip. Again you start by overlapping the strip after an upper point – the blue one this time – You need only secure the outer overlaps this time.

Again you will go over and under and align the strip against the previous = blue one.

However you will go over blue and then over red, followed by under blue and under red, then over blue and over red, followed by under blue and under red. Green overs and unders Join or secure the ends of the green strip at the back. This time the join will be hidden under the red strip. Green ends join Now thread through the yellow strip. (No need to secure except at the start at the back of the blue strip.)

Start, as before, to the right of one of the upper green points. Secure in place tucking the end treble under the blue strip and pinning at the back. Starting yellow This time you have only to go alternately under and over as you work your way round in a similar manner to before. No more securing needed till the end.

Turn the ring inside out and secure the two yellow ends with the safety pin you started with. Yellow ends secure Now remove all the other pins (or securing threads) before joining the ends of the yellow strip (and any other ends you didn’t connect before).

Now you can make sure that all the interweaving is even and you are done.Finished napkin ringMaking one of these takes me a couple of hours.

Celtic napkin ring

Flowered napkin with ringOne of the comments on my original post with a pattern for some celtic coasters mentioned napkin rings and it occured to me that it would be interesting to see if it was possible to make one in a similar way to the coasters.

I decided to use my celtic bookmark as the starting point. Celtic knot bookmarkand the coasters as a guide to size.

The coasters suggested that the ring might be too large, so I moved down a size to a 3.5mm hook and was pleased to find that the resulting napkin ring was just perfect. Celtic napkin ringA closer look at the front. Celtic napkin ring frontAnd on one of my mended white napkins. White napkin with ringI could write out the pattern if anyone is interested though it might be good to add some advice on fitting the four pieces together as it is even trickier than the coasters!

Celtic Coasters pattern update.

When I first published this pattern someone asked for my guidance on fitting the parts together.

At the time I was a bit busy having just returned from my holiday but I have now done some more diagrams to show how to fit each of the parts together progressively. Fitting parts together diagramI have used the colours as in one of my coasters.

The stars represent the joins. The black ones show when they are visible and the arrows show where they are when hidden under other layers.

As the original diagram showed the two thinner shapes are the ones to interleave first. They must go under and over exactly as shown. Join the ends.

Then you add one of the other two going under or over as shown. This will hide one of the joins.

When you add the last shape all the joins will be hidden. This time every under will be followed by an over.

I have updated the pattern in the original post.

Celtic Coasters & pattern

If you enjoy this pattern, you might also be interested in this post – https://rainbowjunkiecorner.wordpress.com/2017/04/24/what-about-a-celtic-coaster-style-placemat/

You may remember my “I have a new obsession” post. Well since then I have been working on more celtic designs, in particular I have continued thinking about how to make a coaster.

I had given up the crochet cotton coaster because my hands were hurting but it occured to me that it might be possible to make one in DK weight yarn if I gave up the idea of combining five pieces, so I tried with three and my standard method of working out how many chains were needed.3 part coasterI realised that although this worked well for my celtic bookmark that the gaps in the resulting coaster would be better eliminated, so I reduced the number of trebles (US-dcs) for a crossing point from four to three and tried again.

I had realised that using less trebles per crossing, I could increase the number of pieces from three to four.

So this is what I did and here is the result.4 part coasterI then got out the oddments of my Rico essentials cotton yarn and made another one.Coaster from cotton oddmentsI thought it worked it even better in cotton.

Now, I had shown you how I messed around with a drawing program to see how different colours could be used. I had a play and chose to make a couple more coasters like this from my regular stash.Red to green coasterandGreen to purple coasterI then thought it might be fun to use just two colours arranged so as to get a chequer pattern in the centre.

This is what you get.Black and cream coasterThis four piece coaster is the one for which I have written out the pattern but of course using the basic idea of three stitches for a crossing point and five into one for a corner you could design any number of pieces plaitwork coaster you chose.

I thought that starting each piece with the three chain and then just one stitch before the first corner worked well.

I would love to make some more but my coffee table is getting Coffee tablea bit crowded.

Now the pattern – UK terms – if you are in the US just replace treble (tr) with double crochet (dc).

Celtic Coaster pattern

These are very easy to make. The trickiest bit is fitting the four parts together.

You make two each of two different shapes. There is a long thin shape and a rectangular shape.

I used DK (US light worsted weight) yarn and a 4mm hook. You need to have a fairly firm strip, so use a different hook if necessary depending on the way you crochet. I crochet fairly tightly.

Mine came out about 3.5 inches square (9 cm).

Long thin shape

Start with 42 chain. (It is quite a good idea, if you are not too much of a perfectionist, to chain a few extra and then remove them at the end, just in case you miss the odd one.)

Ideally you want to work into the loop at the back of the chain (my method four in this post – https://rainbowjunkiecorner.wordpress.com/2015/06/25/four-ways-to-crochet-into-a-chain/ )
This gives an identical edge to both sides of the strip.

Treble into fourth chain from hook, then 5 trs into each of the next two stitches, tr into each of the next 18 stitches, then 5 trs into each of the next two stitches, tr into each of the next 16 stitches.

This ensures that the join can be behind another of the pieces.

Rectangular shape

Starting with 42 chain and working into the back loop again.

Treble into fourth chain from hook, then 5 trs into next stitch, tr into each of the next 6 stitches, 5 trs into next stitch, tr into each of the next 12 stitches, 5 trs into next stitch, tr into each of the next 6 stitches, 5 trs into next stitch, tr into each of the next 10 stitches.

Join the ends of one of the long thin shapes.

I find that it is better not to join the other ends until you are sure you have got them interleaved correctly.

The best way I find is to position the long thin joined shape and then interleave the similar shape as shown below.DiagramYou then add one of the rectangular shapes going over and under as shown in the photograph.Coaster to copy fromor use this diagram.Fitting parts together diagramThe stars represent the joins. The black ones show when they are visible and the arrows show where they are when hidden under other layers.

As the original diagram showed the two thinner shapes are the ones to interleave first. They must go under and over exactly as shown. Join the ends.

Then you add one of the other two going under or over as shown. This will hide one of the joins.

When you add the last shape all the joins will be hidden. This time every under will be followed by an over.

Check that each piece alternates between going over and going under and that all the joins will be on the underside.

When you are satisfied, join the remaining three pieces, press, and your coaster is finished.

(As always if you find any mistakes, please let me know!)