Celtic Napkin Ring pattern

The light has been very bad lately, with the odd bits of brightness at inconvenient moments, or I would have shown you my blanket at the half way point. So finding a little bit of better light I quickly took the photographs for this tutorial.

I used DK (US worsted weight) cotton and a 3.5mm hook. If you crochet loosely you may need a smaller one.

You need to crochet all stitches into the back loop of the the chain so both edges look the same on the right side. (One such loop is shown in black below).Back loop of chain

To start make 50 chain and then make the first treble (US – dc) into the back of the fourth chain from the hook.

After the 50 chain the pattern is

4 tr, 5tr tog, 9tr, 5tr into 1ch, 9tr, 5tr tog, 9tr, 5tr into 1ch, 4tr.

US version

4 dc, 5dc tog, 9dc, 5dc into 1ch, 9dc, 5dc tog, 9dc, 5dc into 1ch, 4dc.

Make four pieces as above in four different colours. Four strips For the tutorial part of this post I used the same colours as I used originally. If you want to use different colours you might find it helpful to copy what I have written and replace my colour names with yours.

The first thing to do is to join the red piece in a ring. Red strip joined All the joins will be hidden but it is only 3 trs (US-dcs) that will be hidden so it is best if you finish the ends up and down the trs (US-dcs) rather than along the edges.

I hope it will be possible for me only use the term treble from now on and for US readers to understand that to them it means the dcs.

Now you thread the blue piece through. You need to secure this in place at each overlap or underlap, as you go, unless you are very deft with your hands.

I have found small safety pins work better that dressmaking pins though if you didn’t have a lot of safety pins you could stitch each overlap with a piece of contrasting thread that you remove later.

The blue starts by overlapping the red just to the right of one of the upper points. This overlap consists of the three trs next to the corner 5tr into 1ch. Pin or secure this overlap. First blue overlap Now align the blue strip along the side of the red one passing under the red this time just next to the corner and secure. First blue underlap Continue along the side of red strip going over the next time then under the final time and securing each overlap.

Unless you are very unsure this is a good time to join the ends of the blue strip together. If you were being very cautious you should still join the two ends together maybe just with a knotted loop of contrasting thread at each edge.

When I made it the first time I distributed the joins around the circle but here you can see the joins in the red and blue strips as neat as I could make them. Joins will only show on the inside. Red and blue joins Now you add the green strip. Again you start by overlapping the strip after an upper point – the blue one this time – You need only secure the outer overlaps this time.

Again you will go over and under and align the strip against the previous = blue one.

However you will go over blue and then over red, followed by under blue and under red, then over blue and over red, followed by under blue and under red. Green overs and unders Join or secure the ends of the green strip at the back. This time the join will be hidden under the red strip. Green ends join Now thread through the yellow strip. (No need to secure except at the start at the back of the blue strip.)

Start, as before, to the right of one of the upper green points. Secure in place tucking the end treble under the blue strip and pinning at the back. Starting yellow This time you have only to go alternately under and over as you work your way round in a similar manner to before. No more securing needed till the end.

Turn the ring inside out and secure the two yellow ends with the safety pin you started with. Yellow ends secure Now remove all the other pins (or securing threads) before joining the ends of the yellow strip (and any other ends you didn’t connect before).

Now you can make sure that all the interweaving is even and you are done.Finished napkin ringMaking one of these takes me a couple of hours.

Celtic napkin ring

Flowered napkin with ringOne of the comments on my original post with a pattern for some celtic coasters mentioned napkin rings and it occured to me that it would be interesting to see if it was possible to make one in a similar way to the coasters.

I decided to use my celtic bookmark as the starting point. Celtic knot bookmarkand the coasters as a guide to size.

The coasters suggested that the ring might be too large, so I moved down a size to a 3.5mm hook and was pleased to find that the resulting napkin ring was just perfect. Celtic napkin ringA closer look at the front. Celtic napkin ring frontAnd on one of my mended white napkins. White napkin with ringI could write out the pattern if anyone is interested though it might be good to add some advice on fitting the four pieces together as it is even trickier than the coasters!

Celtic Coasters & pattern

You may remember my “I have a new obsession” post. Well since then I have been working on more celtic designs, in particular I have continued thinking about how to make a coaster.

I had given up the crochet cotton coater because my hands were hurting but it occured to me that it might be possible to make one in DK weight yarn if I gave up the idea of combining five pieces, so I tried with three and my standard method of working out how many chains were needed.3 part coasterI realised that although this worked well for my celtic bookmark that the gaps in the resulting coaster would be better eliminated, so I reduced the number of trebles (US-dcs) for a crossing point from four to three and tried again.

I had realised that using less trebles per crossing, I could increase the number of pieces from three to four.

So this is what I did and here is the result.4 part coasterI then got out the oddments of my Rico essentials cotton yarn and made another one.Coaster from cotton oddmentsI thought it worked it even better in cotton.

Now, I had shown you how I messed around with a drawing program to see how different colours could be used. I had a play and chose to make a couple more coasters like this from my regular stash.Red to green coasterandGreen to purple coasterI then thought it might be fun to use just two colours arranged so as to get a chequer pattern in the centre.

This is what you get.Black and cream coasterThis four piece coaster is the one for which I have written out the pattern but of course using the basic idea of three stitches for a crossing point and five into one for a corner you could design any number of pieces plaitwork coaster you chose.

I thought that starting each piece with the three chain and then just one stitch before the first corner worked well.

I would love to make some more but my coffee table is getting Coffee tablea bit crowded.

Now the pattern – UK terms – if you are in the US just replace treble (tr) with double crochet (dc).

Celtic Coaster pattern

These are very easy to make. The trickiest bit is fitting the four parts together.

You make two each of two different shapes. There is a long thin shape and a rectangular shape.

I used DK (US light worsted weight) yarn and a 4mm hook. You need to have a fairly firm strip, so use a different hook if necessary depending on the way you crochet. I crochet fairly tightly.

Mine came out about 3.5 inches square (9 cm).

Long thin shape

Start with 38 chain. (It is quite a good idea, if you are not too much of a perfectionist, to chain a few extra and then remove them at the end, just in case you miss the odd one.)

Ideally you want to work into the loop at the back of the chain (my method four in this post – https://rainbowjunkiecorner.wordpress.com/2015/06/25/four-ways-to-crochet-into-a-chain/ )
This gives an identical edge to both sides of the strip.

Treble into fourth chain from hook, then 5 trs into each of the next two stitches, tr into each of the next 16 stitches, then 5 trs into each of the next two stitches, tr into each of the next 14 stitches.

This ensures that the join can be behind another of the pieces.

Rectangular shape

Starting with 42 chain and working into the back loop again.

Treble into fourth chain from hook, then 5 trs into next stitch, tr into each of the next 6 stitches, 5 trs into next stitch, tr into each of the next 12 stitches, 5 trs into next stitch, tr into each of the next 6 stitches, 5 trs into next stitch, tr into each of the next 10 stitches.

Join the ends of one of the long thin shapes.

I find that it is better not to join the other ends until you are sure you have got them interleaved correctly.

The best way I find is to position the long thin joined shape and then interleave the similar shape as shown below.DiagramYou then add one of the rectangular shapes going over and under as shown in the photograph.Coaster to copy fromor use this diagram.Fitting parts together diagramThe stars represent the joins. The black ones show when they are visible and the arrows show where they are when hidden under other layers.

As the original diagram showed the two thinner shapes are the ones to interleave first. They must go under and over exactly as shown. Join the ends.

Then you add one of the other two going under or over as shown. This will hide one of the joins.

When you add the last shape all the joins will be hidden. This time every under will be followed by an over.

Check that each piece alternates between going over and going under and that all the joins will be on the underside.

When you are satisfied, join the remaining three pieces, press, and your coaster is finished.

(As always if you find any mistakes, please let me know!)


Celtic Cross crochet pattern

I am in process of improving this pattern. So if you have visited before you may find changes.Crochet celtic crossThis is the pattern I have devised to make the above. I find it easiest to work from an abbreviated pattern so that is what I give below with an explanation of the abbreviations. I hope it is easy to understand.

I used #10 crochet cotton and a 1.25mm hook. It came out about 4 inches high and three inches wide. (10 x 7.5 cm) However using a smaller hook will give a firmer though slightly smaller bookmark.

Celtic Cross Bookmark

Start with at least 160 chain. Ideally make a few more to allow for missing the odd one or miss-counting. Excess chains can be undone at the end.

(158ch before first tr)

I find it easiest to work with an abbreviated pattern, so here are the abbreviations.


Corner = (2tr, dtr, trtr) into first ch, 3ch ss into 3rd ch from hook, (trtr, dtr, 2tr) into next ch.

V = 2tr into ch.

N  eg 12 = 1tr into each of next 12 ch.

First V = 3ch then tr into 3rd ch from hook.


Corner = (2dc, tr, dtr) into first ch, 2ch ss into 2nd ch from hook, (dtr, tr, 2dc) into next ch.

V = 2dc into ch.

N  eg 12 = 1dc into each of next 12 ch.

First V = 3ch then dc into 3rd ch from hook.


(V V 4 V V 3 Corner V 1 V 1 V Corner 3 V V 4 V V 4) x 3


V V 12 V V 3 Corner V 1 V 1 V Corner 3 V V 12 V V 4

Tie trefoil knots first then interweave centre and sew ends together. Join should be underneath circle when cross is complete.

Here are a few diagrams to help you see how the different parts go but the crochet fits more tightly.Fitting cross diagrams

Then make circle.

Ch 24,

(V11) x 8.

Interweave round centre of cross and position so join is underneath.

Adding circle diagram

For a bookmark you could add a cord at the top or bottom as I describe at the bottom of these patterns – https://rainbowjunkiecorner.wordpress.com/cross-bookmark-pattern/

To use as a bookmark this definitely needs to be stiffened though I think some spray starch is enough.

I am still experimenting so I have yet to complete the cross as a bookmark.

But here is another idea: a two colour bookmark.Red and white crossAnd if one arm looks slightly odd, I have to admit that I missed out a corner when making it and didn’t realise soon enough (well I was watching a very interesting programme on the beginning of the universe) so I had to fudge the end to be able to show this to you.

I’m still thinking ‘celtic’!

I am not ready to start my blanket so I have been messing around with various small projects,: one of which was to continue with my idea of making a cross bookmark based on this silver cross my brother gave me a long time ago.Ideas for patternI refined and completed my ideas for a pattern and using some spare acrylic yarn created this.Trial in acrylicThe sun was so bright and I was in a hurry but I think this gives the idea.

This told me what I needed to do to tighten up the pattern and shorten the arms and then I found a way to make the corners pointier. So I experimented with some #10 cotton thread and got this.Trial in cottonJust clipped together for speed.

This enabled me to work out just what was needed and make a final one.Finished celtic crossI was very pleased with the proportions of this one.

I was a bit worried about the lower upright, when I had made it, because of the two long pieces being separate and thought that it would not be any good as a bookmark but stiffened with the spray starch it feels a lot better, so I may continue with the idea and maybe try making one with the circle in a contrasting colour.

You can’t feel it but what do you think?

I have a new obsession!

Celtic knotwork or plaitwork. (And I haven’t forgotten about the orchids.)

I few weeks ago I showed you the bookmark I had made. Well since then I have been busy drawing and planning and thinking up ideas.

For further ideas I turned to my book on Celtic knotwork.BookHere are some of my early drawings. Early drawingsThe one with colour comes from in the book but done my way.

The ones lower left are just plaitwork squares and the one at the top is my idea for a celtic knot cross bookmark.

This is it done on the computer.Knot crossI have a silver celtic cross and I also wondered if that could be turned into a crochet pattern.

Silver cross designThe curves make this trickier to work out.

Having decided that the plaitwork was the simplest, I played around with a few colours

I decided that using my computer drawing program would make that easier.Complete plaitPutting each colour on a different layer e.g.First layer

made it easier to try different combinations.

Different colourwaysMaybe you might like to try on squared paper or the computer.

The only shapes you need are these.Needed shapesor the mirror equivalent. I have used both.

It’s best to start in the middle like this.Start

Turning this into a pattern is easy.

Draw round the curve to represent the chain you will start with, as in this pattern for my bookmark.Drawing for bookmarkYou will make a long chain the right length (or a little longer and undo any excess chains). Working into the back of the chains gives the best finish.

Each crossover point means 4 chains (ignore the squares between crossovers). Each 90 deg turn means either 1 chain or 5 chains if the chain is on the outside of the curve.

Each 180 deg curve is similarly either 3 chain or 11 chain.

You work 1 tr (US-dc) into each chain except for corners and turns.

A corner 90 deg turn is made by working 5tr (US-dc) into 1 chain or else doing 5trtog.

A 180 deg turn is made by working 5tr into first chain, then 1 tr into next, then 5 tr into next, or else 5trtog, 1 ch, 5trtog.

I liked to start in the middle of a crossover point.

This works for any design not just the bookmark.

I realised that if I made the smaller plaitwork design in DK (US-worsted weight) yarn it would be too big for a drink mat so I thought I would try with some #10 cotton.Halfway finishedUnfortunately I had to stop at this point.

I have had pains in my wrists for the past few months and although making my rainbow spiral cloth was fine, working into the back of the chain for these hurt too much.

I thought it was something that would get better if I just rested my hands and didn’t do things that hurt but now I have been told that it is osteoarthritis. The doctor didn’t seem to think I needed any more information as it was enough to know that it was “nothing scary”.

I am still hoping to finish this one day and try my bookmark ideas. Just need to find out a bit more about living with osteoarthritis and whether if it hurts it’s doing damage.

My hands work fine and the pain is not as bad as it was; just don’t want it to get worse.

It’s thicker than the others but I love using my celtic bookmark.

Celtic knot bookmark