Having discovered that the latest book I got out from the library is a large hardback book I decided to move on from my pineapple bookmark that I have been using lately to one of my Celtic ones: the most popular one with the purple edging and pointy corners. With the pineapple bookmark the pages don’t quite lie flat where it is. But as I suspected with the Celtic one they gape rather more. Similarly with my latest version of the slip stitch one. Now with pointed corners! Even my plain Celtic cross lifts the pages a little more. Now with cord and tassel. And of course my latest Celtic cross bookmark. (Not yet with added cord) operates more like the other embellished Celtic ones.Just thought it was useful to give an idea of their relative thickness! Though when in use in the middle of the book they show slightly less!
There is a diagram to help with interleaving the ribbon together to make the bookmarks at the bottom. This is probably the hardest part!
***** ***** ***** ***** *****
I would suggest using #10 crochet cotton and a 1.25mm hook for starting chain, then 1.25mm or 1mm hook for working stitches or whatever size produces a firm but not impossibly tight result. I crochet fairly tightly and I think I used a 1.25 hook throughout. Using a larger hook for the starting chain can make it easier to crochet into.
***The stitches need to be worked into the loop at the back of the starting chain. This is method 4 in my tutorial on four ways to work into a chain.***
Slip stitches or Edge should be worked in a contrasting colour to main strip.
I am writing these patterns in similar way to how I wrote the Celtic Cross pattern.
A number means to work that many stitches, one into each chain. The V and A represent using multiple stitches as described below.
These are in UK terms. [US equivalent is in brackets and italics where needed.]
Bookmark to have edge added
V = 5trs into one chain. [V = 5dcs into one chain.]
A= 5trs tog. A= [5dcs tog.]
Outer turn = V 1 V
Inner turn = A 1 A
Making main ribbon
Start with at least 395 chain. (Having a few extra will allow for miscounting or missing a stitch by mistake, or my calculation being wrong!)
Start by working tr into 4th ch from hook – equals first two trs. [Start by working dc into 4th ch from hook – equals first two dcs.]
12 (outer turn) 10 V 15 A 15 V 15 A 15 V 10
(outer turn) 15 A 15 V 15 A 15 V 15
(inner turn) 10 A 15 V 15 A 15 V 15 A 10
(inner turn) 15 V 15 A 15 V 15 A 3
Work along both sides.
Can work 3 or 4ch or just extend thread so as not to need to cut thread when reversing direction at end of strip as these will be hidden by join.
Start at beginning of strip.
1ch, then dc into each tr, except for inner and outer turns. These as below.
Outer turn: into first 5tr work dc, dc, htr, tr, dtr, Then trtr into central stitch, then reverse into next five: dtr, tr, htr, dc, dc.
Inner turn: miss out stitch either side of central stitch. That is a dc as before and after.
US – Instructions:
[1ch, then sc into each dc, except for inner and outer turns. These as below.
Outer turn: into first 5dc work sc, sc, hdc, dc, tr, Then dtr into central stitch, then reverse into next five: tr, dc, hdc, sc, sc.
Inner turn: miss out stitch either side of central stitch.That is a sc as before and after.]
This bookmark came out approximately 7 inches by 1.5 inches when I made it. (18cm x 4cm). It is the largest as you can see in this photograph.
Although the bookmark above was the most popular, for completeness, I have continued with instruction for the bookmark with a slip stitch embellishment but included options for either having my original rounded ends or pointed ends, as these seemed popular.
Bookmark to have slip stitches added
V = 5trs into one chain. [V = 5dcs into one chain.]
A= 5trs tog. A= [5dcs tog.]
For pointed ends
Outer turn = (tr, tr, tr, dtr, trtr) into first ch, then quadtr into next, (trtr, dtr, tr, tr, tr) into third ch
Inner turn = worked over 3ch but working 5 sts tog as above for first and third and a quadtr in the middle.
For rounded ends
Outer turn = V 1 V
Inner Turn = A 1 A
Making main ribbon
Start with at least 333 chain. (Having a few extra will allow for miscounting or missing a stitch by mistake, or my calculation being wrong!)
Start by working tr into 4th ch from hook – equals first two trs.
10 (outer turn) 8 V 12 A 12 V 12 A 12 V 8
(outer turn) 12 A 12 V 12 A 12 V 12
(inner turn) 8 A 12 V 12 A 12 V 12 A 8
(inner turn) 12 V 12 A 12 V 12 A 2
Adding slip stitches
Work a slip stitch into each stitch along top of trebles (including other stitches used for turns where applicable) then 2ch or extend thread for a turn and work slip stitches into the stitch equivalents of the starting chain.
This bookmark with rounded ends came out approximately 5.5 inches by 1 inch when I made it. (14cm x 3cm). And with pointed ends was 6.25 inches by 1 inch. (16cm x 3cm)
Interleaving the Ribbon to make the Bookmark
Using the above diagram as a guide find the turn that is around the middle of the ribbon. This is the one in the bottom left hand corner of the diagram.
Follow the green and orange coloured parts that extend from this turn and interleave them as shown.
Then fold in the green/red turn and the orange/blue turn.
I then turn it so the these turns are at the top and fold in the remaining lengths.
There is an asterisk showing where the final join is.
Join neatly so it doesn’t show outside the overlap.
Pull into shape, this may take a while, and then stiffen if you want to, although they will be fairly stiff anyway if you have made the ribbon firm enough.
Celtic knots and plaitwork are always drawn with an edge so that you can see clearly how the ribbons cross over each other and I thought that this did not show clearly enough on my original cross. which is why I started experimenting with adding slip stitches. At the time I did try adding the slip stitches to the back loop only so as to give an edge but found that this made the strip so much wider. I thought of using dcs (US-scs) for the central ribbon but knew this would be more fiddly so decided against it.
I was also finding slip stitching more difficult than dcs (US-scs) at this time so I tried adding a dc edge but could see that the cross was then so much bigger. (I did increase the number of stitches as well and could have reduced them a bit but it would still have been bigger than I wanted.)
Recently however I decided to bite the bullet, as they say, and try making the main ribbon of the cross out of dcs (US-scs) instead of trs (US-dcs).
I knew this would make it harder to keep track of the stitches when checking to see I hadn’t made a mistake but I persisted and my first attempt turned out like this. I could see that this was much smaller than the original and was not entirely surprised as crochet is very stretchy in a sideways direction (especially the upright of the cross) but had noticed that adding the slip stitches removed this, as with the cross with the purple slip stitches above.
So I decided to increase the number stitches and use a bigger hook.
Now I have lots of tiny steel hooks, inherited from my mother, but only a few, still small but larger, aluminium ones and the smallest of these is a number ‘3’. My smallest aluminium hook was a 2.5mm and larger so I decided I would use the no. 3.
(Looking at some crochet hook charts I now think that this might be a 1.9mm equivalent hook.)
With the increased stitches and the new hook my cross turned out like this. You can see here how these two attempts compared with the original. So I decided that as with my other slip-stitched crosses it wasn’t necessary to increase the stitch numbers except for the upright and the circle and tried again.
Here are all my three attempts next to each other together with the original. The slip stitch edged cross (bottom right) does not really need stiffening and had finally given me what I was after.
The original is of course easier to make and attractive in it’s own right but I like the new one best!
So here are the three different styles.
The one on the right with the inner slip stitches is the thickest and the top central (original one) is the thinnest.
I also experimented recently with making an equal armed cross with the added slip stitches but don’t really like it. Though I am not sure why!
I have updated my pattern page with patterns for all four different types of Celtic Cross.
This has been really hard work and I have tried to double check everything but if you decided to use one of the patterns and find anything that seems wrong, or any typos, I would be really grateful if you would let me know so I can change it for others.
Ever since someone put a photograph of one of my Celtic coasters on Pinterest I have had about three weeks of hundreds of people every day coming to look at the pattern. Even now it seems to be over one hundred.
I know that a thread bookmark will appeal to far fewer people but it did make me think that it might be worth revisiting my Celtic bookmarks.
My original bookmark was this.(I can’t find it at present so it is probably keeping a place in a book somewhere!)
I did find that it was a bit floppy even when sprayed with starch so this time I decided to move away from my original idea of choosing four stitches for a crossover point and used the three stitches that I used for the coasters to ensure there were no gaps.
This gave me. I found that this was naturally stiffer and was probably not worth starching.
If you look closer I think you can see that the white part shows you the ‘right’ side of the crochet whereas the red shows the ‘wrong’ side. I quite liked this as it means that the bookmark doesn’t itself have a ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ side and the pattern for both parts is the same.
However I did sit down and work out a pattern for the second piece so that you could have both pieces showing the ‘right’ side.
When I created the original I liked the idea of choosing to make a configuration that needed two pieces.
[For Celtic plaits this width, there are only two main possibilities: that of two strands or one. More about the variations at the end for those who may be interested.]
However as the corners at the side come in pairs, the colours were not as separate as I might have liked so I decided to see what could be done with a version that came in one piece.
[It might be worth mentioning, even now, that if you count the right angled corners down the side and this is an even number you will get two separate strands and if it is an odd number you will always get one.]
I had chosen eight corners for the original bookmark as I thought that it gave the right proportions for a bookmark and so I decided to chose nine for my one piece bookmark.
This is what the strip looks like when it is finished.I thought that a totally plain bookmark would be boring and wouldn’t show off the plaitwork to best effect and so I decided to add a dc (US-sc) edging. I had increased the number of stiches per crossing back to four.
(This didn’t work with this strip as it still made it to wide to fold together easily so I took it off and tried adding slip stitches.)
This gave me the red and white bookmark in this photo.I thought that this was reminiscent of this style of plaitwork in my book. However I still wanted to try a dc edging so I increased the number of stitches for a crossing to five. (I made a slight adjustment to the ends too.)
This gave me the following. which is larger but I rather liked.
Here is a size comparison with some of the many bookmarks that I own. The leather bookmark on the left is rather large, more suitable for a large book like a bible, but I often use the two papyrus ones in my library books; so you can see that they are all useable.
Of course these bookmarks are twice as thick as my other crochet bookmarks (Find them HERE) because of the crossing over and in fact when you add the slip stitches that makes them slightly thicker again. Still useable I think.
Now before you leave off reading I would like to ask a couple of questions.
- Which bookmark do you like best? (If you like any!)
- Do you think it is worth publishing the pattern for any of them? If so which ones?
More about the different types of plaits
Really you can think of there being four different types of plait of this width which depend on the number of right-angled corners up the side.
The two odd ones of the four are really the same but with an even number they do show subtle differences, as you can see in this picture.
There are two main differences.
If the even number is divisible by four there are same number of corners of each colour on both sides. If the number is not divisible by four there is an extra pair of each colour on opposite sides.
From a crochet point of view it makes a difference to the 180 deg turn-around points.
The dark line represent your initial chain and as you can see for the number divisible by four the chain is on the inside of all the turn-around points.
Where the number is not divisible by four the chain is inside for one and outside for the other. It is worth noting that this also happens for the odd numbered ones where you get one of each, each end.
The extra picture at the bottom (compare with top left) is to highlight the fact that these plaits do have a handedness and although I have chosen one of them that the same piece of crochet could be used to make either. Though you would want to put the join in a different place!
I really feel that I could do with some way of lighting the items I want to photograph in a more even way and even if it is dull outside. However I have packed up all my Christmas cards now so this will have to do.
I shared with you the pattern for the angels I was making for my Christmas cards and now I will share with you the making of the final cards. Here is the final card and this is how I put them together.
First an aside. Several years ago I got a pair of folding scissors in a Christmas cracker and ever since then I had it on my key ring and it was very useful when I was out, especially when crocheting on the bus or Friday ‘Crafty Coffee’ mornings.
BUT then I lost my keys and thus the scissors!
Now for years I had wanted a Swiss Army knife but had never got around to it, partly because of the cost and partly because I could never decide which one I would buy. Now I decided that I would finally buy myself one with a scissors. The choice was really between the Climber and the Compact, as although I liked the idea of the magnifying glass on the Explorer it was a bit too chunky. In the end I bought the Climber because on Black Friday it was available locally at a good price and it is always good to see something before you buy it.
One of the things that the knife came with I wasn’t sure I would use but in fact it was the ideal tool to help with assembling my Christma cards.
And that was the ‘reamer’. I used it to make a hole and pull the loop at the end of the cord through the hole.
Here you can see an angel and a card, the dot is to guide me as to where to make the hole.
And here is the reamer all ready to be used to pull the loop through the card. Here is the inside when I had fixed the angel in place with a piece of cord securing the bottom of the robe to the loop. These pictures were taken the other day when I was in a hurry to make a couple of cards to send abroad. On Sunday I finished the other twelve cards and here you can see all twelve angels. And the twelve finished cards. Originally I was intending to make more angels but pains in my wrists and lots of problems to sort out meant that I only made seventeen (including the three for the Giveaway). So for a few people that I wanted to give home-made cards to I have folded some origami angels to go on the same cards. I will share these with you next week when I have made the cards and taken some photographs.
Not being happy with either of my earlier attempts to make a Christian fish bookmark. I decided to have another try. I decided that the rectangular shape worked best but that the fish needed to be in a contrasting colour to show up. I tried to do this with the filet crochet but it was not at all satisfactory, so I switched my attention to tapestry crochet.
I started out with DK yarn as I often do, even though it would be much too big. Having felt that this showed promise I then tried out a small version in #10 thread.
Just the minimum length to include my ideas. It is possible to make the back look pretty much perfect but I decided that this was good enough. However I decided that I would really like a lighter colour and found a blue/green mixture on the internet that looked appealing but didn’t want to buy it on-line if I could get it locally because of the cost of postage.
I went up to Winchester that is the nearest place I know that has a good selection of crochet cotton but I couldn’t get exactly what I wanted and came back with this instead. It was lighter in colour than I would have liked but I made this? What do you think?
I think I would make the fish a bit longer next time. I am not sure why it is so short, maybe I miscounted!
This is a new improved version of the pattern. I find it easiest to work from an abbreviated pattern so that is what I give below with an explanation of the abbreviations. I hope it is easy to understand.
My original cross.When I used #10 crochet cotton and a 1.25mm hook (Blue cross) it came out about 4 inches high and three inches wide. (10 x 7.5 cm) However using a smaller hook will give a firmer though slightly smaller bookmark. (Red cross)You could also try multi-coloured thread. For this I used a 1.25mm for the starting chain and a 1mm hook for the rest. I also increased the picot stitches from two to three.This is what I think of as the improved pattern.
Celtic Cross Bookmark
Start with at least 158 chain. Ideally make a few more to allow for missing the odd one or miss-counting. Excess chains can be undone at the end.
You need to crochet into the loop at the back of the chain. (Method 4 in my tutorial.)
The starting chain should not be too tight or you will not be able to find the loops, especially the ones after working the corners. I found using a 1.25mm hook for the starting chain and then a 1mm hook for the rest of the cross worked best but you should maybe experiment to see what works best with your crochet style. I know I work a little more firmly than some.
I find it easiest to work with an abbreviated pattern, so here are the abbreviations.
Corner = (2tr, dtr, trtr) into first ch, 3ch ss into 3rd ch from hook, (trtr, dtr, 2tr) into next ch.
V = 2tr into ch.
N eg 12 = 1tr into each of next 12 ch.
First V = tr into 3rd ch from hook.
Corner = (2dc, tr, dtr) into first ch, 2ch ss into 2nd ch from hook, (dtr, tr, 2dc) into next ch.
V = 2dc into ch.
N eg 12 = 1dc into each of next 12 ch.
First V = dc into 3rd ch from hook.
(V 4 V 1 V 1 V Corner V 1 V 1 V Corner V 1 V 1 V 4 V V 4 V) x 3
V 12 V 1 V 1 V Corner V 1 V 1 V Corner V 1 V 1 V 12 V V 4 V
Tie trefoil knots first then interweave centre and sew ends together. Join should be underneath circle when cross is complete.
Then make circle.
(V 1 1) x 8.
Interweave round centre of cross and position so join is underneath.
For a bookmark you could add a cord at the top or bottom as I describe at the bottom of these patterns – https://rainbowjunkiecorner.wordpress.com/cross-bookmark-pattern/
To use as a bookmark this definitely needs to be stiffened though I think some spray starch is enough. It is necessary to pull the corners firmly and pull the strands into exactly the right place before stiffening.
I am not ready to start my blanket so I have been messing around with various small projects,: one of which was to continue with my idea of making a cross bookmark based on this silver cross my brother gave me a long time ago.I refined and completed my ideas for a pattern and using some spare acrylic yarn created this.The sun was so bright and I was in a hurry but I think this gives the idea.
This told me what I needed to do to tighten up the pattern and shorten the arms and then I found a way to make the corners pointier. So I experimented with some #10 cotton thread and got this.Just clipped together for speed.
I was a bit worried about the lower upright, when I had made it, because of the two long pieces being separate and thought that it would not be any good as a bookmark but stiffened with the spray starch it feels a lot better, so I may continue with the idea and maybe try making one with the circle in a contrasting colour.
You can’t feel it but what do you think?
Although no-one has expressed an interest I thought I would share my pattern for the angel bookmark as I think it could also make an attractive decoration. (We all know what is coming up in four month’s time. and crafters need to start early.) 🙂
Here are pdf versions to download in UK and US terms:-
and below the UK version written out.
I suppose it goes without saying but, especially if you make this in cotton thread, a little stiffening will improve it’s usability.
I used #10 cotton thread and a 1mm hook. The pattern does seem to work better with a relatively small hook.
I start with a magic loop but you could use a 6 chain circle or similar instead.
Round 1 is the ‘right side’.
Round 1: 4ch(=1st dtr), 15dtr, ss together.
Round 2: 5ch(=tr, 2ch), (tr, 2ch) into each of next 12 dtrs, tr into 14th dtr. [This leaves 2 dtrs unworked for neck.] Reverse direction.
Round 3: 1ch, (dc, 2ch, dc) into each 2ch gap.
You now make the first wing.
12ch, then reverse direction.
I think the prettiest way to work the next row is to use my ‘method 3’ of this post – https://rainbowjunkiecorner.wordpress.com/2015/06/25/four-ways-to-crochet-into-a-chain/ – for crocheting into the chains as that gives a scalloped edge.
The method is to work into the front two loops of the chain as you look at it, leaving the back loop to make the scallop.
First Row: Dc into second ch from hook, dc into each of the other chs. (11sts)
Next row: 3ch(=1st tr) then repeat (ch, miss a dc, tr) 5 times.
Next row: Ch, (dc,2ch, dc) into 1st gap then repeat (ch, tr) into each gap, tr into 3rd ch at start of previous row.
Now repeat these two rows below in a diminishing manner.
Row A: 3ch(=1st tr) then repeat (ch, miss the tr, tr into gap) to end [4 repeats first time.]
Row B: Ch, (dc,2ch, dc) into 1st gap then repeat (ch, tr) into each gap, tr into 3rd ch at start of previous row.
For the last Row B:– ch, (dc, 2ch) into gap, dc into 3rd ch of previous row.
Finish off. Ends can be sewn in now or later.
Join yarn at other side of halo and repeat for second wing.
With right side facing and head down, join yarn to rightmost free dtr and
Row 1: 4 Ch (=1st dtr) (dtr, 2ch 2dtr) into this dtr, and (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into other dtr.
Row 2: 3ch ss into wing at top of a ‘B’ row, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, 1ch, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below. Tr into 4rd ch of previous row. Ss into wing at top of a ‘B’ row.
Row 3: 3ch, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, 2ch, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below. Tr into 3rd ch of previous row.
Row 4: 3ch ss into wing at top of a ‘B’ row, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, 3ch, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into last 2ch gap of row below. Tr into 3rd ch of previous row. Ss into wing at top of a ‘B’ row.
Now wings are anchored to body initial 3ch increases to 4ch.
Row 5: 4ch, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 3ch gap of row below, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below. Dtr into 3rd ch of previous row
Can you see the pattern?
Row 6: 4ch, [(2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, 1 ch,] twice then (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into last 2ch gap of row below. Dtr into 4th ch of previous row.
Row 7: 4ch, [(2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, 2 ch,] twice then (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into last 2ch gap of row below. Dtr into 4th ch of previous row.
Row 8: 4ch, [(2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, 3 ch above 2ch gap] twice then (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into last 2ch gap of row below. Dtr into 4th ch of previous row.
Row 9: 4ch, repeat twice [(2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 3ch gap of row below]. (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into last 2ch gap of row below. Dtr into 3rd ch of previous row
Row 10: 4ch, repeat [(2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, 1 ch,] four times then (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into last 2ch gap of row below. Dtr into 4th ch of previous row.
Row 11: 4ch, repeat [(2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into 2ch gap of row below, 2 ch,] four times then (2dtr, 2ch, 2dtr) into last 2ch gap of row below. Dtr into 4th ch of previous row.
Row12 (Last row): 6ch, dc into gap, repeat (5ch, dc into gap) eight times. 6 ch, ss into 4th ch of previous row.
Finish off and sew in ends.
This would make a nice bookmark with maybe a cord and tassel as for my Cross Bookmarks attached into the top of the halo. But it could also be used as a decoration for a Christmas tree or several angels attached to a long chain as Christmas bunting.
You could even work them in thicker yarn, even metallic, as decorations.
On Tuesday the weather started off a bit cloudy but by mid-morning it brightened up so we packed a picnic and went to the paddling pool on Southampton Common.
Louisa had a paddleand then she saw that for a small cost you could have a few minutes moving around on the water in a large inflatable see-through ball. So of course grandma paid for her and she had some fun.You can see the tether. A guy walked around keeping the ball in the centre of the pool.There was also time for swimmingand making friends.Today the craft part is what I was doing while Lousia was having fun.
In June 2013 I showed you, how while I was on holiday in Criccieth, I had devised an angel bookmark that I could use on Christmas cards.Somehow since then I have never got around to working out how I had made the angel, and making more in time for Christmas, but recently I have got down to working up a proper pattern.For the final pattern I have amended the design slightly (as you can see by comparing the outer two with the middle original.) I think that this will be the final version. I am planning to make them in different colours but so far have been working in white. As bookmarks I will add a cord and tassel as with my cross bookmarks.