The new chart. I find it very hard to make a chart for a ripple but I think this is better than the chart for the original ripple.

When I devised my original Granny Ripple pattern, I chose between three samples that I made.

At the time I chose the middle one.

This was my favourite at the time for two main reasons I think.

- I knew that a Granny ripple could never be as symmetrical as this simple ripple but I was looking for something that was as symmetrical as possible and chose to seek this on the increasing and decreasing row.
- The very slight assymetry of the result made the ripple seem further away from the Granny zig-zag that I didn’t want.

#### However

Months of looking at my spectrum blanket and musing on fact that the peaks were sharper than the troughs led me eventually to realise that removing the extra three treble group between the decreases could actually lead to a symmetry of the two row pair. (This is the top sample.) *Made into a blanket it is rippley enough I now feel!*

I wanted to try this out and, having really enjoyed putting together the colours for the sea-and-sand blanket I made for my daughter, decided to try a not too large lap/shoulder blanket using the same colours which I could drape on my bedroom chair where the colours would really go.

*There is nothing I enjoy so much as having a blanket on the go, especially my granny ripple that is so easy to do!*

I calculated that this blanket would only need about half a ball of each colour and so I collected together any balls where I had at least 50g left and supplemented this by buying these from a shop and these on-line where the shop didn’t have the necesary colours. I also indulged myself, as you can see, by buying the three sizes of hook I use most often with DK yarn of the Clover Armour hooks that I have come to really love. (Well it did mean I didn’t have to pay postage!)

Here are all the colours ready to start the blanket.

And here is how far I have got. And a comparison of both ripples.

### Here is the modified pattern (UK & US versions)

## PATTERN (UK version)

I am using a 5mm hook (but some people may get the same result with a 4.5mm hook) and DK yarn. I like using a 5mm hook for granny square type blankets because it produces a soft fluid result.

I also find that introducing a chain between each group of three trebles as happens in granny squares makes granny stripe type blankets too loose so I have omitted them.

My ripples come out about 6” (15 cm) between adjacent troughs (or peaks).

You need to decide how many ripples wide you want to make it.

**To start** you make a chain [(39 x number of ripples) + 3] long.

*[However my tip is to actually make the chain about 5 chains longer than you need and then when you have finished the first row you can actually undo any excess at the start of the chain, link by link, and it all remains quite secure. This way if you make a small miscalculation you don’t have to undo the whole row.]*

*I don’t think that this pattern is as bad as some as you only have to work into every third chain on the foundation row!*

**Row 1:** work 2tr into the 6th chain from the hook (I don’t count the loop on the hook itself).

Then repeat (miss 2ch 3tr into next chain) until you have [(13 x number of ripples) –1] three treble groups. Then miss 2ch and 1tr into last chain.

**Row 2:** 3ch = 1tr then 2tr, 1ch, 3tr, into first space. 3tr into each of next 4 spaces. Miss a space. 3tr into next space. Miss a space. 3tr into each of next 4 spaces. 3tr, 1ch 3tr into next space.

Then repeat for each ripple:-

3tr, 1ch, 3tr, into first space. 3tr into each of next 4 spaces. Miss a space. 3tr into next space. Miss a space. 3tr into each of next 4 spaces. 3tr, 1ch 3tr into next space.

Until the last ripple where the very last treble should be worked into the chain 5 chains from the first worked treble group instead of into the space. This will give a firm edge.

**Row 3:** 3ch = 1tr then work 3tr into each space between ‘three treble’ groups and finish with 1tr into the 3rd ch at start of the row below.

**Row 4:** 3ch = 1tr then 2tr, 1ch, 3tr, into first space. 3tr into each of next 4 spaces. Miss a space. 3tr into next space. Miss a space. 3tr into each of next 4 spaces. 3tr, 1ch 3tr into next space.

Then repeat for each ripple:-

3tr, 1ch, 3tr, into first space. 3tr into each of next 4 spaces. Miss a space. 3tr into next space. Miss a space. 3tr into each of next 4 spaces. 3tr, 1ch 3tr into next space.

Until the last ripple where the very last treble should be worked into the 3rd of the chains in the row below instead of into the space. This will give a firm edge.

**Repeat rows 3 & 4** as many times as you like.

*Another plus point about this pattern is that all the odd rows after the first one are just a matter of working 3tr into each gap except at the start and finish.*

## PATTERN (US version)

I am using a 8/H hook (but some people may get the same result with a 7 hook) and worsted weight yarn. I like using an H hook for granny square type blankets because it produces a soft fluid result.

I also find that introducing a chain between each group of three double crochets as happens in granny squares makes granny stripe type blankets too loose so I have omitted them.

My ripples come out about 7” (18 cm) between adjacent troughs (or peaks).

To start you need to decide how many ripples wide you want to make it.

**To start** you make a chain [(39 x number of ripples) + 3] long.

*[However my tip is to actually make the chain about 5 chains longer than you need and then when you have finished the first row you can actually undo any excess at the start of the chain, link by link, and it all remains quite secure. This way if you make a small miscalculation you don’t have to undo the whole row.]*

*I think that this pattern is not as bad as some as you only have to work into every third chain on the foundation row!*

**Row 1:** work 2dc into the 6th chain from the hook (I don’t count the loop on the hook itself).

Then repeat (miss 2ch 3dc into next chain) until you have [(13 x number of ripples) -1] three double crochet groups. Then miss 2ch and 1dc into last chain.

**Row 2:** 3ch = 1dc then 2dc, 1ch, 3dc, into first space. 3dc into each of next 4 spaces. Miss a space. 3dc into the next space. Miss a space. 3dc into each of next 4 spaces. 3dc, 1ch 3dc into next space.

Then repeat for each ripple:-

3dc, 1ch, 3dc, into first space. 3dc into each of next 4 spaces. Miss a space. 3dc into next space. Miss a space. 3dc into each of next 4 spaces. 3dc, 1ch 3dc into next space.

Until the last ripple where the very last double crochet should be worked into the chain 5 chains from the first worked double crochet group instead of into the space. This will give a firm edge.

**Row 3:** 3ch = 1dc then work 3dc into each space between ‘three double crochet’ groups and finish with 1dc into the 3rd ch at start of the row below.

**Row 4:** 3ch = 1dc then 2dc, 1ch, 3dc, into first space. 3dc into each of next 4 spaces. Miss a space. 3dc into next space. Miss a space. 3dc into each of next 4 spaces. 3dc, 1ch 3dc into next space.

Then repeat for each ripple:-

3dc, 1ch, 3dc, into first space. 3dc into each of next 4 spaces. Miss a space. 3dc into next space. Miss a space. 3dc into each of next 4 spaces. 3dc, 1ch 3dc into next space.

Until the last ripple where the very last double crochet should be worked into the 3rd of the chains in the row below instead of into the space. This will give a firm edge.

**Repeat rows 3 & 4** as many times as you like.

*Another plus point about this pattern is that all the odd rows after the first one are just a matter of working 3dc into each gap except at the start and finish.*