One person who read a recent post asked if I could add a video tutorial.
Now I don’t do video tutorials and in fact, for myself, I normally prefer pictures and diagrams that I can peruse at my leisure, so I am going to share a few photographs that I hope explains exactly what I was suggesting.
The post in question was on knitting fair isle and how I had now mastered a way of ensuring that the yarns didn’t get tangled and could even be twisted every other stitch if wanted. I give a description of this in an Addendum to the post but maybe a picture is worth a thousand words, as they say, so here is an explanation with photographs.
I don’t describe what to do for purl stitches because it is essentially the same principle and when learning fair isle it is better to use circular knitting where all the stitches will be knit. However a piece of flat knitting is easier to photograph.
Knitting Fair Isle
The first thing is to separate the two yarns one on either side. The one on the right being the ‘upper’ (normally background) yarn and the one on the left being the ‘lower’ yarn.
As in this photograph.I am referring to the person’s own right and left.
Arranging the yarns like this naturally makes the one on the right hand side higher than the other and helps in remembering which is which.
This method will work whether you are twisting frequently or only every few stitches. However it always involves two adjacent stitches of the same colour.
When twisting frequently and knitting an odd number of stitches in the same colour, I will always knit the first one normally and then twist the yarn for the next two. (Repeating the twisting for more pairs as necessary.)
Firstly I will deal with twisting the yarn for stitches using the ‘upper’ right-hand side yarn.
I think you can see in the photograph how the green (right-hand) yarn naturally sits above the pink (left-hand) yarn.
For the first of the two stitches, I pull a loop of the upper yarn forwards under the lower yarn and use that to wind round the needle. (See arrow)For the next stitch, I pull the yarn back and use that to knit the stitch. (See arrow)I think you can see that this will bring the green yarn back to the top.
The yarn should now be untwisted in any way and back to where you started.
Now knitting with the ‘lower’ left-hand side yarn.
This time I pull a loop backwards under the ‘upper’ yarn and knit with this. (See arrow) Looking at the photograph below I think you can see how the pink yarn is now naturally above the green.
So I pull the yarn forward and use the length that is below to make the stitch. (See arrow)As before, the yarn should now be untwisted in any way and back to where you started.
Everyone has their own way of holding yarn but I find it is possible to hold both in the right hand and use the first finger and thumb to twist from one to the other. Though a certain amount of letting go is also needed.
I hope that all this is helpful and adds to what I said before.
(As a footnote. When working purl stitches I did tend to find that I needed to treat the right hand yarn as the lower and the left hand yarn as the upper.)
This as you may guess is another part of my knitted doll birthday present project. It is almost 18″ (45cm) per side.
However it is a much quicker way of making a blanket than my previous ones as I only started on Thursday evening and finished it Sunday afternoon. Which means I could probably make a full sized blanket in about half the time I normally take.
As it is for my grandson I decided to just have a simple dc edging.
In a way this is a style of blanket I have been wanting to make for the last two years.
Around the time I started my blog I found someone who was selling granny baby blankets with repeating sequences of colours and I thought about what colours and patterning I would choose if I made something similar and I came up with this
and put it in my sampler pile. So I am very pleased to have finally made the blanket even if it is a small version.
Another thing that pleased me was that having read somewhere that there was a way of starting a row with a treble (US dc) instead of three chain when beginning a new colour, I worked out how to do it and it worked perfectly.
I like to start my rows in the middle of a corner. So in the picture below the three trebles to the left of centre are the first granny group of the row. I think you can see, especially on the white, that the first stitch of the group is a treble and not three chain.
Looking on the internet today there seem to be a variety of ways of doing it (I have just found two) but my way is slightly different.
One way is to start with a slip knit on your hook. That was my first idea but I found that it left you with a knot and was not necessary.
You start by folding the new yarn over the hook. (Obviously this is described as for a right handed person.)
Then you fold the tail under to the left and over to the right as in this picture.
Then pull tight and place the twist on the far side of the hook a little way from the end.
From now on you press your right forefinger tightly against the twist to hold it in place.
Pick up a loop of thread and insert the hook in the work, as usual.
Draw through a loop, as usual.
Then draw more yarn through the first two loops (again as usual). This is the point to press really tightly on the twist and not lose your nerve as the stitch seems to stretch out.
You now need to change your hold to your left hand as you pick up the a new loop of yarn ready to pull through the last two loops on the hook.
Pull the picked up yarn through the last two loops and there you are
Pull gently on the tail to take up any slack and you can continue with the rest of the row.
This means that your starting and finishing tails are on the same level which I quite like.
Now I have turned the heel I have two things to add which I will add the the earlier tutorial but also include here and they are –
When turning the heel don’t let the end stitches on the needle holder stretch because if you do you will need to tighten them back up by loosening the other stitches that have tightened to enable them to stretch. (I had to do this; I will put my spare stitches on something light like a piece of yarn next time.)
The best way to increase the number of stiches back up to the right number, after having done the K2togs on the first round, is to do an M1 – which is to say pick up the strand between the stitch that had been on the holder and the decrease stitch and knit into the back (so there is no hole). This actually helps tighten everything up.
With so many blogs talking about making socks and the yarn for my next blanket not having arrived yet, I could resist the urge no longer and have started another pair of socks.
Now I have always made toe-up socks (using short rows with wrapped stitches) because I am not very good at picking up stitches (as happens with top-down socks) and I like the way they look but that is not to say that I have not had difficulties.
Now maybe you are not interested in making toe-up socks or maybe you do but have no problems at all. In which case this post is probably of no interest. I have written it just in case there is anyone out there who has had the same issues as myself.
Problem 1 – wrapped stitches
The problems I have had have been in knitting (or purling) the double wrapped stitches with their wraps when making short-row toes and heels. I have sometimes split the yarn and or dropped the stitch and had to pick it up again, all in all, giving a messy result.
I think that some other people must also find this a bit tricky too, as I have come across a couple of alternatives to the wraps. I have experimented with these but ended up deciding that I think the wraps method gives a better result.
But recently I had a bit of a breakthrough in my thinking and have developed a fairly problem free method of dealing with the wrapped stitches.
Problem 2 – holes when changing to circular knitting
Another problem I have had has been making sure that a hole didn’t develop at the end of the wrapped part when transitioning to circular knitting. The generic sock pattern I have been working from talks vaguely about picking up extra stitches on the first round and then decreasing on a later round. I have tried this ‘picking up and later decreasing’ but sometimes the process seemed to create more problems (= holes) than it solved and took a few rounds to sort out (badly!).
Like here.
However I have made four pairs of toe-up socks which equals eight socks which equals sixteen short row heels or toes. In the course of this I have discovered a much simpler method of ensuring that there are no holes and I would like to share this as well in case it can be of help to anyone.
Tutorial section
I am assuming that like me you pull the yarn firmly but not tightly when wrapping the stiches and knitting the following stitch, so as not to create unnecessary slackness in the yarn.
Knitting stitches with their wraps
Here is the stitch ready to be knitted.
Stitch with two wraps ready to be knitted
Firstly, you slide the stitch from the left needle onto the right hand needle and from now on keep your eye, and probably your finger, on it to make sure that it stays there.
Right needle in stitchStitch on right needle
Now picking up the two wraps with the left needle will be no more difficult that picking up two stitches when doing something like a K2tog. I aim at the centre of the loops.
Wraps on left needle
Once the stitches are cleanly on the left hand needle with no split yarn you can easily slip the right needle through the back of them. Remembering the finger of course!
Right needle through wraps
Now it is safe to remove the left needle, (though I often find with knitting stitches, I can simply insert the left needle through the remaining stitch without removing it.)
Left needle removed
Lastly you insert the left needle through all three loops in front of the right needle which should be straightforward as they are cleanly and securely on the right needle.
Both needles through all three loops
(I haven’t done a picture as it would have been too difficult but if there is any uncertainty you can look through the hole below the right needle from the point of that needle.)
Now you can wrap the yarn round the right needle in the normal way
Yarn over needle
pull through
Yarn pulled through
and complete the stitch.
Completed stitch
You may notice that I keep the stitches well down the needles whenever possible.
The procedure is essentially the same for purling but I have included a few pictures for completeness.
Purling stitches with their wraps
The stitch ready to be purled.
Stitch to be purled
Slid onto the right needle.
Stitch on right needle
Picking up the wraps with the left.
Wraps picked up on left needle
Right needle through the wraps.
Right needle through wraps
Left needle removed and inserted through all three loops behind the right needle.
Both needles through loops
Yarn pulled through as usual.
Yarn pulled through
Stitch completed.
Stitch completed
Ensuring no holes
When you have knitted and purled all the wrapped stitches and are ready to pick up the stitches from your provisional cast on, the important thing is to make sure that you put the first and last of the picked up stitches on appropriate needles next to the adjoining first or last stitch you have been knitting on the straight needles. The reason for this is so that as you work back along the stitches you have just been using you can knit the end stitches together (K2tog).
So you start your first round with a K2tog and you have another about half-way round.
Now
You are going to say to me ” But now I am two stitches short!” – my original response is below the pictures.
Since writing this tutorial I have turned another toe and heel (on my second sock) and have decided that the best method is to knit the first two end stitches together as described above, then the second lot at the other end of the heel stitches, then straight after do an M1 – which is to say pick up the strand before the next stitch and knit into the back (so there is no hole). When you get back to the beginning do an M1 as before into the last gap. So now you are back to the right number of stitches.
[However, this is still a work in progress for the perfect solution and I read something where the person suggested you start knitting in the round when you have knitted the last wrapped stitch but still have one left to purl. I want to try this.]
Addendum
After turning the first heel I had two things to add and they were –
When turning the heel don’t let the end stitches on the needle holder stretch because if you do you will need to tighten them back up by loosening the other stitches that have tightened to enable them to stretch. (I had to do this; I will put my spare stitches on something light like a piece of yarn next time.)
The best way to increase the number of stiches back up to the right number, after having done the K2togs on the first round, is to do an M1 – which is to say pick up the strand between the stitch that had been on the holder and the decrease stitch and knit into the back (so there is no hole). This actually helps tighten everything up.
Pictures of the heel to show the result.
Right side of heelLeft side of heel
This was my original response to the question of compensating for the K2togs
I have not decided on a ‘best’ solution to this and I think it depends on how you feel about these things, and maybe the shape of your feet and ankles, but there are a few solutions which I will list below.
You could simply increase in the decrease stitches on the next round. (I was afraid when I started this sock that that might make a hole – though I now think I am wrong – so I chose a different method.
I cast on an extra two stitches at the beginning and, forgetting about the heels – now having an extra four stitches – knitted two together on the second round as well.
If you don’t mind having an extra two stitches when doing the foot you could leave these two extra stitches on the top half of the sock and use them when doing the K2togs for the heel.
When doing the heels if you don’t have two extra stitches already, as in option three, you could either increase after the short-rows, as in option one, or increase at both ends of the last row of the stitches you will put on a needle holder while making the heel.
I hope this doesn’t sound too confusing – but I always think choice is good!
Last Christmas I showed you these crochet baubles I bought in Paperchase.
And told you that I would like to make some myself for the next year.
Well! that time has come but with wanting to finish two blankets and some Christmas gifts to make as well I have not progressed as much as I would have hoped. However it still seems appropriate to share with you what I have managed to do, with a bit of a tutorial in case you are inspired to make some yourselves.
I decided to start by using the balls I had as inspiration for working up a pattern. I also persuaded my daughter to give me one of the plastic balls that were lying around the house that had come out of a small home ball pit.
The first pattern I used (copy included at end) gave me this:-
I used #10 crochet cotton and a 2mm hook as the shop balls seemed to have been made loosely and this gave me something that fitted nicely over my ball. (The ball was about 70mm in diameter – a little smaller than the ones I had bought but I actually like them better that way.)
I bought some School PVA glue. (This was cheaper than the ‘Craft’ glue and was washable so I thought it would mix better with water – I have never used it before; maybe some of you know more about using it). I mixed one teaspoon of glue with 1 teaspoon of water in an egg cup and thoroughly soaked the crochet in the glue water mixture.
I covered the ball in vaseline (petroleum jelly) to stop the crochet sticking to it. (More on this later).
Apologies for the mess in the background. 🙂
I stretched the crochet hemispere over the ball
and put it in the airing cupboard to dry.
Here is a ‘before and after’ picture.
I then made a second hemisphere and did the same.
However I began to realise that the vaseline, or the moisture, had softened the ball and it was getting harder to get the dents out of it so I decided that maybe it would be better to cover it with a piece of cling film: not quite as smooth but good enough.
Looking closely at the balls I had bought I decided that the two halves had been stuck together with polystyrene glue so that is what I did and got this:-
I also worked up a different pattern which was less lacey based on another of the balls but this was less satisfactory (though not entirely unusable) so I won’t bother to share this pattern with you.
This made the following
I don’t know if you can see but they are less naturally rounded than the first and, though it is hard to see in a photo, I also made a mistake and on one of the rows: I used trebles (US dcs) for one and double trebles (US trs) for the other.
However they did dry fairly rounded when stretched over the ball.
This second time I had intended to make both halves first and stretch them over the ball at the same time to make the two edges more easily match up but another shortcoming of this pattern was that they did not quite meet so in fact the ball is not truly spherical and the one half fits inside the other to a certain extent because of my mistake in the pattern. (I forgot to write it out as I went 🙂 )
I think though that hung on a Christmas tree it is still usable. I have yet to add a loop to hang them by and it would probably have been easier to do this before I stuck the two halves together.
Here they are together.
And here is the pattern I used for the first, lacey ball.
Christmas Bauble pattern
My recommendation would be to use a polystyrene ball that can be found in a craft shop and cover with cling film though I have yet to do it this way.
Using the cotton and hook size given below the ball should be about 70mm in diameter.
I used Anchor Aida #10 crochet cotton and a 2mm hook.
UK version
Starting with a magic loop or other preferred method.
Row1: 6ch, then working into the centre of the loop (tr, 3ch) five times and s.s. into 3rd ch at start..
Row 2: S.s. left till you get into loop, 6ch, tr into same loop, 3ch then (tr, 3ch) twice into each of next five loops, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 3: 3ch, [(2ch, dc, 2ch, ) into loop tr into tr] eleven times, then (2ch, dc, 2ch) into last loop, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 4: 7ch, (tr into tr, 4ch) eleven times, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 5: 3ch, [(3ch, dc, 3ch, ) into loop tr into tr] eleven times, then (3ch, dc, 3ch) into last loop, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 6: 8ch, (tr into tr, 5ch) eleven times, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 7: As Row 5.
Row 8: 9ch, (tr into tr, 6ch) eleven times, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 9: As Row 5.
Row 10: 9ch, (tr into tr, 6ch) eleven times, s.s. into 3rd ch at start. Or else instead of the tr, use a dc or s.s. – whatever makes the shape cover half the ball.
US version
Starting with a magic loop or other preferred method.
Row1: 6ch, then working into loop (dc, 3ch) five times and s.s. into 3rd ch at start..
Row 2: S.s. left till you get into loop 6ch, dc into same loop, 3ch then (dc, 3ch) twice into each of next five loops, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 3: 3ch, [(2ch, sc, 2ch, ) into loop dc into dc] eleven times, then (2ch, sc, 2ch) into last loop, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 4: 7ch, (dc into dc, 4ch) five times, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 5: 3ch, [(3ch, sc, 3ch, ) into loop dc into dc] eleven times, then (3ch, sc, 3ch) into last loop, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 6: 8ch, (dc into dc, 5ch) eleven times, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 7: As Row 5.
Row 8: 9ch, (dc into dc, 6ch) eleven times, s.s. into 3rd ch at start.
Row 9: As Row 5.
Row 10: 9ch, (dc into dc, 6ch) eleven times, s.s. into 3rd ch at start. Or else instead of the dc, use an sc or s.s. – whatever makes the shape cover half the ball.
***** ***** ***** ***** *****
I am hoping in time to try out other patterns although I must say that I particularly like this one. I would also like to make the balls in a variety of colours. I may share these with you if and when I complete them.
As a general guide: I used Rico Essentials Cotton nominal DK [US 8ply] (but to my mind a little thinner) and a 4mm [US no. 6] hook to make bunting triangles about 4 inches (10cm) each side. But obviously you could use any yarn and an appropriate sized hook.
I started with a magic circle.
Then made 3 chain (ch) as a starting treble [US dc].
I will describe in full making the first treble [US dc]
Yarn round hook
Hook through magic circle loop
Pull a loop of yarn through to give three loops on hook.
Then pick up a loop of yarn
and pull through two loops nearest hook to give.
Pull yarn through last two loops and you have a completed treble (tr) [US dc].
Work another tr [US dc] into the loop and you get the first of your ‘granny’ three treble [US dcs] group.
You then need to make 3 ch for the corner
and another 3 trs [US dcs] into the loop.
You have the first corner.
Then you work another 3 ch for your second corner
followed by another 3 trs ([US dcs] into the loop.
Then work 3 ch
and draw the loose end tight to close the loop.
You now work a slip stitch to close the round by inserting the hook into the third of the starting three chains
and pulling a loop of thread through the stitch and the loop on the hook.
***** ***** ***** ***** *****
If I was changing colour at this point I would join a new colour before the slip stitch thus:
I would tie in the new yarn (I show the knot loose so it is easier to see but I would in fact pull it tight.)
Then pull the new yarn through the stitch and loop on hook.
To give –
***** ***** ***** ***** *****
I have my own way of starting a new round for a granny square, circle or triangle which is the following.
I pull the loop out to make it larger
Then I pull it through the corner from back to front.
so it is the right size to start making stitches in the middle of the corner.
I then make the starting 3 ch tr [or US dc] equivalent.
followed by 2 trs [US dcs].
This completes half a corner. Between corners I use 1 ch to separate the groups of trs [US dcs].
Now we work the next corner but making 3 trs [US dcs] into the corner on the previous round.
followed by 3 ch
and a further 3 trs [US dcs] into the same corner gap.
Now we work into the next corner in the same way making – 1ch, 3trs [US dcs], 3 ch, 3trs [US dcs].
And we finish the last corner by working 1 ch followed by 3trs [US dcs] into the corner.
then 3 ch.
And joining with a slip stitch (sl st) as before.
For the next round the corners are worked in the same way but in the 1 ch gap between corners we work 3trs [US dcs] separating the 3tr [US dc] groups by 1ch, but still using 3ch for the corners as before.
Giving
This process can be continued as long as you wish depending on how big you want the bunting.
Each round has three corners with one extra 3 tr [US dc] group for the third row, two for the fourth, three for the fifth and so on………………
Here I show you a chart for the five rows that I used for mine.
As in my previous post
The triangles tend to be a little rounded so to make them more crisply triangular it is a good idea to pin then out and iron them. I used a little spray starch with mine as I was using a cotton yarn.
I found the easiest way to join them into bunting was to take two strands of the cotton yarn and make a chain. After a few inches I slip stitched into the corner of a triangle then proceeded thus:
sl st into corner, 3ch, then repeated (sl st between groups, 3ch) until I reached the last corner when I did another sl st and then a few chain (5 I think) before slip stitching into the corner of the next triangle.
I always think six-pointed stars for Christmas cards as a reference to the six-pointed ‘Star of David’ as Jesus was a Jew and was born in the ‘City of David’.
(Pattern at the end in UK and US versions.)
I used Twilley’s Goldfingering in silver and gold and a 2mm hook.
I also bought folded A5 sheets of card and matching envelopes from ‘Paperchase’ in dark blue.
I cut myself a piece of white card A6 size and marked out a hexagon where I wanted the star to go and then placed it on top of the front of the unfolded card. Underneath I placed an odd piece of polystyrene that I had so I could stick the end of my compass through the points of the hexagon.
Originally I was going to cut a hole and fit the star in it, which is why I have the extra lines. All you need is a hexagon.
(Mine was marked out using a vertical central line to locate the centre of the circle and top and bottom points then the normal straight edge and compass way of drawing a hexagon using a radius of 1.5 inches, which seemed about right).
You need to pull the points on the star well to work out the correct diameter. The holes should be where the points are when stretched.
You then push a sharp pin, needle or compass point through the corners of the hexagon and remove the white card.
Then take a piece of sewing cotton; I found about 18 inches (45cm) was a good length; and make a good knot on the end and thread through one of the holes.
You then make a small stitch into the back of one of the 3 chain points and thread the needle back through the same hole being careful not to go into the thread coming out of the hole.
Repeat this procedure for each hole in turn going round the hexagon. You then need to gently pull the cotton on the back and the points on the front till the points of the star hide the holes and the cotton at the back is taut.
Then turn over
and finish off the thread by doing several stitches as illustrated: first into the starting length by the knot to make the loop tight and then to the final length to secure the end.
If I had beautiful handwriting I might have done the words below the star with my gold and silver pens but as my handwriting is very uneven I bought peel off words at a craft shop.
I would have preferred two sheets the same as the silver one but there was not a lot of choice. The silver letters came off so easily but the gold ones were very tricky.
Finally I stuck a label on the back of the front of the card with instructions on removing the star after Christmas is over.
The card and the envelope together cost me 75p. The Goldfingering was £3.50 a ball and I think one ball will make about a dozen stars so say 30p a star. The lettering sheets were 89p each. So I think the cards should cost me a bit less than £1.20 each to make. I haven’t made them all yet but expect to do about two dozen.
Christmas Star patterns
UK version
Using Twilleys goldfingering in silver or gold and a 2.00mm hook.
Start: 6 ch loop.
Row 1: Working into the loop: 7ch (= 1dtr + 3ch), dc, 3ch, then repeat {dtr, 3ch, dc, 3ch} 5 times. Slst into 7ch loop at start.
Row 2: Repeat {6ch, slst into top of dtr) six times. Last slst is into slst of previous row.
Row 3: Repeat {4ch, tr into 6ch loop of previous row, 4ch, slst into slst of previous row.} six times.
Row 4: Repeat {6ch, dtr into top of tr on row below, 6ch, slst into slst of row below} six times.
Row 5: Repeat {dc under loops of rows 3 & 4, 5dc under loop of row 4 only, 3ch, 5dc under loop of row 4 only, dc under loops of row 3 & 4.} six times. Slst to fix final dc.
Pinch the 3ch at the tips of the points and pull hard. Sew in the ends
US version
Using Twilleys goldfingering in silver or gold and a 1/B hook.
Start: 6 ch loop.
Row 1: Working into the loop: 7ch (= 1trc + 3ch), sc, 3ch, then repeat {trc, 3ch, sc, 3ch} 5 times. Slst into 7ch loop at start.
Row 2: Repeat {6ch, slst into top of trc) six times. Last slst is into slst of previous row.
Row 3: Repeat {4ch, dc into 6ch loop of previous row, 4ch, slst into slst of previous row.} six times.
Row 4: Repeat {6ch, trc into top of dc on row below, 6ch, slst into slst of row below} six times.
Row 5: Repeat {sc under loops of rows 3 & 4, 5sc under loop of row 4 only, 3ch, 5sc under loop of row 4 only, sc under loops of row 3 & 4.} six times. Slst to fix final sc.
Pinch the 3ch at the tips of the points and pull hard. Sew in the ends.
* * * * *
As always please let me know if you find any mistakes.
There are many incredibly delicate and complex crochet snowflakes but I had problems even with ones that I thought looked simpler so here are my Really Easy Snowflakes Patterns.
* * * * *
If you don’t mind spending a bit of money you could check out my “Real Snowflakes” on Ravelry – HERE – (Only £2.00 + VAT) Suitable to be made in any weight yarn.
* * * * *
I started using the sock yarn for the white socks but that makes very small fiddly snowflakes so I switched to DK (US worsted weight) yarn. My default size hook for this yarn is 4.5mm but I used a 4mm one to make them a bit firmer. I have used a pale blue yarn instead of the white for the step by step pictures because I think it makes the stitches easier to see.
You could really use almost any weight yarn and any hook depending on how big you want them but I think firm is best. Pulling the points may be necessary.
I am using UK crochet terms but I have done a simple ‘pattern only’ US version at the bottom.
Please point out any errors if you notice them.
Large
This only has four rows and only the last one is at all fiddly.
I used the Magic Loop Method to start all my snowflakes but you can use whatever is your favourite method.
I am not very good at draughtsmanship but here is a drawing I did for my project book that I thought gives a good idea of how the yarn goes for this method if you are a beginner.
Row 1: 3ch=1st tr
then 11trs into hole.
Join with a slip stitch into the third chain at the beginning.
When I was beginning crocheting in the round it took me a while to realise but ‘working into the third chain’ meant working into the first place that it was easy to get into, that is almost above the first of the trebles.
First row complete
Row 2
When working into gaps I like to start by pulling the yarn through the gap to the right (the one before the three chain of the previous row)
and then pulling it to the right of the gap before working any more trebles.
Row 2: 3ch = 1st tr then 1tr, 1ch working into the gap to the right of the (3ch=1st tr) of the previous row.
Then work (2tr, 1ch) eleven more times, working into each gap between the trebles of the previous row. Slip stitch together as first row.
Second row complete
Row 3:
3ch = 1st tr then 2tr into the first space.
then (tr, 4ch, tr) into the next space.
Then alternate this with (3tr) into each space to the end. Slip stitch together as first row.
Third row complete
Row 4
Have you ever reflected on the fact that even single crochet stitches do not really sit neatly on top of each other but are actually slightly offset like the three treble groups are when doing granny squares.
So I decided for reasons of symmetry to work 4dc above the 3tr of the previous row.
Row 4: 2ch=1dc, then a further 2dc into the stitch holes (3 & 4) as in the picture above.
Then work a Trefoil = (2dc, 3ch, slst, 5ch, slst, 3ch 2dc) into the gap below the 4ch of the previous row. You can push the stitches along to the right if you feel you are running out of space for this.
Trefoil – chain loops opened up to make it easier to see
Then work 4dc over the 3tr groups as in the picture (holes 1,2,3,4) and the trefoils into the loops – all the way round.
Finish with a last dc into hole 1 and slst together into 2nd chain at start.
I have used 3-5-3 for the chains in the trefoil because I liked it best but for variety you could use 3-3-3, 5-5-5 or 5-7-5.
You could also try increasing the number of chains between the 3tr groups on row 3. But then of course you would need to increase the number of dcs in the trefoil.
Extra Large
This is similar to the large one but has five rows.
Row 1 & Row 2: are the same as the large.
Row 3: is similar to Row 3 above but you alternate 3tr with (2ch, 2tr, 2ch).
Row 4: Slst left to middle tr of row below. Then repeat (5ch, 2tr into gap between trs below, 5ch, slst into centre of 3tr from row below. [ I use hole 2 from my picture for this].) 6 times.
Row 5
I am going to call a slst into gap between 2 trs of row below – ssg
Row 5: Repeat (5dc into chain loop, ssg , 4ch, ssg, 7ch, ssg, 4ch, ssg, 5dc into next chain loop) 6 times.
Row 2: (ch3, slst into next ch) 12 times. Last slst is into first st.
Row 3: On this row you alternate (dc into loop, ch4) with (dc into loop, ch2) and join with a slst.
Row 4: On this row you work a (3dc, 5ch, 3dc) into the larger loops and (dc, 3ch, dc) into the smaller loops and finish off with a slst into a likely hole.
Small
This only has 3 rows! The only thing that makes it all fiddly is the size.
Again I started with the Magic Loop but instead of 12trs I worked 12dcs into the loop.
Row 1: 2ch = 1st dc, 11dc into loop, slst together into 2nd chain.
Row 2: (5ch miss a st and slst into next one) 6 times. Last slst is into starting stitch. If you find you can’t miss a st for the last loop that means you have missed two sts at the start. (well that’s what I did sometimes).
Row 3: Trefoil into each loop as in the first pattern – which is (2dc, 3ch, slst, 5ch, slst, 3dc, 2dc) into each loop.
My very small one was done using a 3-3-3 pattern for the trefoil. I did have to pull extra hard on the points to get this one to lie flat.
Again variations in the size of loop and trefoil pattern are possible.
US Version Patterns
Large
This only has four rows and only the last one is at all fiddly.
I used the Magic Loop Method to start all my snowflakes but you can use whatever is your favourite method.
Row 1: 3ch=1st dc then 11dcs into hole. Join with a slip stitch into the third chain at the beginning.
Row 2
When working into gaps I like to start by pulling the yarn through the gap to the right (the one before the three chain of the previous row) pulling it to the right of the gap before working any more dcs.
Row 2: 3ch = 1st dc then 1dc, 1ch working into the gap to the right of the (3ch=1st dc) of the previous row. Then work (2dc, 1ch) eleven more times, working into each gap between the dcs of the previous row. Slip stitch together as first row.
Row 3: 3ch = 1st dc then 2dc into the first space then (dc, 4ch, dc) into the next space.
Then alternate this with (3dc) into each space to the end. Slip stitch together as first row.
Row 4: 2ch=1sc, then a further 2sc into the stitch holes (3 & 4) as in the picture above.
Then work a Trefoil = (2sc, 3ch, slst, 5ch, slst, 3ch 2sc) into the gap below the 4ch of the previous row. You can push the stitches along to the right if you feel you are running out of space for this.
Then work 4sc over the 3dc groups as in the picture (holes 1,2,3,4) and the trefoils into the loops – all the way round.
Finish with a last sc into hole 1 and slst together into 2nd chain at start.
I have used 3-5-3 for the chains in the trefoil because I liked it best but for variety you could use 3-3-3, 5-5-5 or 5-7-5.
You could also try increasing the number of chains between the 3dc groups on row 3. But then of course you would need to increase the number of scs in the trefoil.
Extra Large
This is similar to the large one but has five rows.
Row 1 & Row 2: are the same as the large.
Row 3: is similar to Row 3 above but you alternate 3dc with (2ch, 2dc, 2ch).
Row 4: Slst left to middle dc of row below. Then repeat (5ch, 2dc into gap between dcs below, 5ch, slst into centre of 3dc from row below. [ I use hole 2 from my picture for this].) 6 times.
Row 5
I am going to call a slst into gap between 2 dcs of row below – ssg
Row 5: Repeat (5sc into chain loop, ssg , 4ch, ssg, 7ch, ssg, 4ch, ssg, 5sc into next chain loop) 6 times.
Row 2: (ch3, slst into next ch) 12 times. Last slst is into first st.
Row 3: On this row you alternate (sc into loop, ch4) with (sc into loop, ch2) and join with a slst.
Row 4: On this row you work a (3sc, 5ch, 3sc) into the larger loops and (sc, 3ch, sc) into the smaller loops and finish off with a slst into a likely hole.
Small
This only has 3 rows! The only thing that makes it all fiddly is the size.
Again I started with the Magic Loop but instead of 12dcs I worked 12scs into the loop.
Row 1: 2ch = 1st sc, 11sc into loop, slst together into 2nd chain.
Row 2: (5ch miss a st and slst into next one) 6 times. Last slst is into starting stitch. If you find you can’t miss a st for the last loop that means you have missed two sts at the start. (well that’s what I did sometimes).
Row 3: Trefoil into each loop as in the first pattern – which is (2sc, 3ch, slst, 5ch, slst, 3dc, 2sc) into each loop.
My very small one was done using a 3-3-3 pattern for the trefoil. I did have to pull extra hard on the points to get this one to lie flat.
Again variations in the size of loop and trefoil pattern are possible.
First, of course, I had to knit a square (well actually a rectangle) to help me get an idea of my tension on this particular yarn. Then work out how many stitches to use as the pattern I am following is a measure your foot and work it out sort of thing. I also had to work out increases for the leg and I hope I’ve got it right because I don’t really know what you are supposed to do.
Then I had to decide on the patterning, if any. Something like my over the knee socks (which I took to mean a bit of texture in between flat stocking stitch vertical stripes) had been requested. I trawled through sock pattern after sock pattern on the web, only to realise that such patterns were not common.
However, I stopped to examine more closely a pattern that was all over what I think was called an ‘always right twist’. I realised that this might provide a motif that I could use for my stripes and what was even more exciting was that as a motif it was just like a sort of rib except for a fancy stitch once every five rows. So I tried a couple of inches to see if it would work. I increase the number of purl stitches either side from one to two after a few rows so that is why it looks a bit odd.
I decide that I liked it and it is so easy I might find I don’t end up having to do too much undoing when I go wrong.
The ‘always right twist’ stitch is just so easy – the pictures do enlarge if you wish to see more closely.
First you knit two together but leave the stitches on the left hand needleThen you insert the needle between those two stitches and into the one on the right and knit itFinally you pull the stitches off the left hand needle and it’s done
I then started with the disposable cast on and the wraps to make the toe of the sock.
I did end up having to undo a few rows, which was discouraging, as I wasn’t sure if I had done all the wraps right and some looked a bit loose. But maybe I shouldn’t have tried to do it while watching the qualifying for the Monaco Grand Prix.
I find knitting or crocheting while watching a Grand Prix is really good because it helps calm me down during the anxiety provoking / exciting bits and is something to attend to during the boring bits. Qualifying was much too exciting. 🙂
However I have now got this far.
I still cannot believe that I am knitting with such a fine yarn on such small needles.
Now the sock is well under way maybe I will allow myself to get out my new cotton yarn and see if the squares for my flower cloth come out the right size.
One last picture for you all
I wrote about all the things I had won from cuteasabutton’s birthday giveaway and said that I thought I would use the brooch on my jacket. Well I found an even better place for it: on my sun hat.
I am one of those people who have to wear a hat if I am out in the sun for any length of time because otherwise I get a headache. So I have a cotton easy to pack sun hat but I sometimes think when I am going out looking relatively smart that maybe it looks a bit too like a hat for the beach but now I have added the brooch and I think it looks quite stylish!
Oh! and I’ve been using my blanket for it’s original purpose on my bed: as an adjunct to a sheet and it works very well.
I am referring to the person’s own right and left.
For the next stitch, I pull the yarn back and use that to knit the stitch. (See arrow)
I think you can see that this will bring the green yarn back to the top.
Looking at the photograph below I think you can see how the pink yarn is now naturally above the green.
As before, the yarn should now be untwisted in any way and back to where you started.
or
Or a full set from above. 
Suitable to be made in any weight yarn.
