Those of you who have been following this blog for a long time may remember when I collected a number of photographs of actual snowflakes and created crochet versions for seven of them. Patterns hereAt the time I decided that the snowflake in the top left of the picture would be too hard for me to make. (As an aside: I also decided that the eighth snowflake (bottom middle) was too textured to be able to do justice to it in three or four rows.)
This was for two main reasons.
- It would have to involve using picot type stitches and I had been unable to make satisfactory picots.
- I was afraid that the arms would end up floppy.
However since then I have discovered where I was going wrong and how to make picots that lie flat. I also saw some snowflakes with a similar style of points in this book: which gave me encouragementand I have been making some snowflakes to be sold in a local charity shop using acrylic yarn and a 2.5mm hook and found that with that size hook, even acrylic snowflakes can end up very firm.
I started off using that size hook rather than a more obvious choice of 3.5mm because I had been given a Clover Armour hook of that size and was really enjoying using it , so was reluctant to use an ordinary hook. And here is a comparison with the original photograph. You can see that even with my crochet not being 100% even it is still more symmetrical than the original!
For anyone who is interested in making one (or more!) here is the pattern.
Note that whereas the other snowflakes for which I created the earlier patterns all end up a similar size this one is necessarily a little larger.
Snowflake Pattern (UK terms)
I crochet fairly tightly so all I can recommend is that you chose a 2.5mm hook or even smaller, for DK (worsted weight) yarn depending on how loosely you crochet. For other weight yarn use a hook much smaller than you would normally use if you want the points to hold up under their own weight. This can mean that not all the yarn pulls through on a stitch sometimes and it has to be redone!
Start: With a magic loop or 4ch circle if you prefer (but I think that a magic loop is better as you can pull it really tight.)
Round 1: Work 6dc into the loop or circle and slip stitch closed
Round 2: 3ch (= 1sr tr) then into 1st dc work (tr, 6ch). Work 2trs followed by 6ch into each of the following 5dc of the previous round. Slip stitch into the third chain at the start of the round.
This last round creates the points and is the trickiest round. It is really a matter of making five picots but adding an extra slip stitch to hold both sides together on the last two. I think where you add the extra slip stitches is obvious as it is the hole at the bottom of the picot on the opposite side.
For anyone, who like myself, finds their picots don’t look right the answer I found was when slip stitching to use method two of my four ways to crochet into a chain.
Round 3: (The following is repeated six times, you can omit the final slip stitch for the sixth repeat and just sew in the end.)
7ch, slip stitch into fourth chain from hook, 4ch, slip stitch into fourth chain from hook, 8ch, slip stitch into eighth chain from hook, 4ch, slip stitch into fourth chain from hook. Here you work an extra slip stitch into the same stitch as the stitch for the second of the earlier four chain picots. Then 4ch, slip stitch into fourth chain from hook, plus an extra slip stitch into the same stitch as the stitch for the first of the earlier four chain picots. 3ch and end by slip stitching into the second of the two trebles.
Then working into the 6ch loop. Dc, hdc, 2ch, dc, 2ch hdc, dc. Slip stitch into 1st tr of next pair.
Finish: Pull the centre tightly closed, if using the magic loop. Sew in the ends securely and then pull the points and loops hard until the snowflake lies flat and looks even. Or else pin out on a board and leave for a while. As always, I welcome any comments on the pattern, especially pointing out errors!
Here is a photograph of the snowflake suspended. As you can see the points really do stay stiff!