The light has been very bad lately, with the odd bits of brightness at inconvenient moments, or I would have shown you my blanket at the half way point. So finding a little bit of better light I quickly took the photographs for this tutorial.
I used DK (US worsted weight) cotton and a 3.5mm hook. If you crochet loosely you may need a smaller one.
You need to crochet all stitches into the back loop of the the chain so both edges look the same on the right side. (One such loop is shown in black below).
To start make 50 chain and then make the first treble (US – dc) into the back of the fourth chain from the hook.
After the 50 chain the pattern is
4 tr, 5tr tog, 9tr, 5tr into 1ch, 9tr, 5tr tog, 9tr, 5tr into 1ch, 4tr.
4 dc, 5dc tog, 9dc, 5dc into 1ch, 9dc, 5dc tog, 9dc, 5dc into 1ch, 4dc.
Make four pieces as above in four different colours. For the tutorial part of this post I used the same colours as I used originally. If you want to use different colours you might find it helpful to copy what I have written and replace my colour names with yours.
The first thing to do is to join the red piece in a ring. All the joins will be hidden but it is only 3 trs (US-dcs) that will be hidden so it is best if you finish the ends up and down the trs (US-dcs) rather than along the edges.
I hope it will be possible for me only use the term treble from now on and for US readers to understand that to them it means the dcs.
Now you thread the blue piece through. You need to secure this in place at each overlap or underlap, as you go, unless you are very deft with your hands.
I have found small safety pins work better that dressmaking pins though if you didn’t have a lot of safety pins you could stitch each overlap with a piece of contrasting thread that you remove later.
The blue starts by overlapping the red just to the right of one of the upper points. This overlap consists of the three trs next to the corner 5tr into 1ch. Pin or secure this overlap. Now align the blue strip along the side of the red one passing under the red this time just next to the corner and secure. Continue along the side of red strip going over the next time then under the final time and securing each overlap.
Unless you are very unsure this is a good time to join the ends of the blue strip together. If you were being very cautious you should still join the two ends together maybe just with a knotted loop of contrasting thread at each edge.
When I made it the first time I distributed the joins around the circle but here you can see the joins in the red and blue strips as neat as I could make them. Joins will only show on the inside. Now you add the green strip. Again you start by overlapping the strip after an upper point – the blue one this time – You need only secure the outer overlaps this time.
Again you will go over and under and align the strip against the previous = blue one.
However you will go over blue and then over red, followed by under blue and under red, then over blue and over red, followed by under blue and under red. Join or secure the ends of the green strip at the back. This time the join will be hidden under the red strip. Now thread through the yellow strip. (No need to secure except at the start at the back of the blue strip.)
Start, as before, to the right of one of the upper green points. Secure in place tucking the end treble under the blue strip and pinning at the back. This time you have only to go alternately under and over as you work your way round in a similar manner to before. No more securing needed till the end.
Turn the ring inside out and secure the two yellow ends with the safety pin you started with. Now remove all the other pins (or securing threads) before joining the ends of the yellow strip (and any other ends you didn’t connect before).
Now you can make sure that all the interweaving is even and you are done.Making one of these takes me a couple of hours.