A second crochet case!

As I said last week, I was going to make a second crochet hook case for my longer thicker hooks. I do have one really thick hook that I inherited from my mother that is the equivalent of a 6.5mm hook. I have not included this one.

Both hook cases

This time it is my own pattern.

Here is the inside where the hooks go.

Inside of case

And the other side.

Outside of case

And here it is with the hooks in place.

Crochet hoks in case

There are many ways I could have arranged the hooks. In the previous case I put all the hooks of the same size together but here I have chosen to have same size hooks in the same colour stripes. The hooks on the right with the straight ends are my favourites. They, from the turquoise to the red, are 3mm, 3.5mm, 4mm, 4.5mm and 5mm. The dark blue is an odd 2.5mm hook I had and I may get a 2mm hook for those odd times when I may need one – for sock yarn perhaps.

I do have two 4.5 hooks (orange) but I was helping a couple of women to start learning to crochet at Crafty Coffee on Friday and I lent one of them my 4.5 hook (my less favoured one).

The shorter hooks on the left are ones I inherited from my mother and they go from 12 (2.5mm) on the left to 9 (3.5mm) [not exact equivalents I think] on the right (green). I do have a couple of other inherited hooks that I haven’t bothered to include as they are only repeats.

And as at the start – the case rolled up.

Case rolled up

Because I wanted to just use the seven classical rainbow colours three times the case does not quite cover all the places where the reverse of the hooks show. It goes from red at the edge to about half way through the earlier yellow.

Just in case anyone wants to make a case like this I include a brief pattern.


I am assuming that anyone who wants to make a crochet hook case is already an experienced crochetter.

I started with a 4mm hook and some Rico Essentials cotton which is nominal DK but a little thinner than most DK in my opinion.

I found that 40ch gave me a case just a little longer than my 15cm long hooks.

[I think that before you make the case it would be worth experimenting in a small way just to check that the loops for the hooks come out a suitable size for your hooks and adjust the hook size you are using appropriately as not everyone crochets to the same tension – I think that I incline to being tighter than most.]

Ch 40.

Row 1: dc in second ch from hook and in all subsequent ch. [I worked into the loop at the back of the chains to give a neat edge] (39dc)

The next three rows create the stripes for the hooks. (Obviously you don’t need to change colour if you don’t want to). Work as many of these as you have hooks.

  1. 1ch, dc into each dc.
  2. 1ch, dc into each of first 6dc, dtr into next dc, dc into next dc – twice, dtr into next dc, dc into each dc until 29th dc. 30th dc – dtr, dc into next dc – twice, 33th dc – dtr, dc into each dc to end. [This gives symetrically placed loops top and bottom in 7th and 10th stitches from edge.]
  3. 1ch, dc into each dc.

Change colour at the end of the row if wished.

After all the stripes for the hooks, it is a good idea to make a few more to cover the back where the hooks show through. For my case of fourteen hook stripes it should have been about ten stripes to cover.

I now give a few pointers that helped me with working dtrs into a fabric of dcs. They also helped to create the loops for the hooks.


When you have worked the dtr it helps to insert a small piece of yarn round the stitch where the extra hook has been threaded through in this photograph.

Where to thread yarn

When you are working with the inside of the case towards you it should end up like this.

Yarn threaded through

Because for symmetry the loops are worked as the central row of three, you will find that the loops alternate between being worked with the outside towards you and the inside.

The first loops are worked with the outside toward you and so then the loops of yarn appear thus.

Yarn threaded other side

I found that however careful I was, the top of the dtr stitches didn’t flow smoothly with the top of the dcs.

They looked like this.

Messy top of stitches


But if you pull the pieces of yarn hard. You not only create the loops you will later need for the hooks but it makes the stitches look more regular.

Stitch tops when yarn pulled


I worked the edging on only three sides as you can see.

I worked a dc into each dc on the edges and end, with an extra one for the corner.

I then worked dc, 3ch, dc into every other dc except for the corner where I worked it into all three dcs round the corners.


I chained 70 dcs threaded it through the middle of the edge at the end and tied it in place.

*****     *****     *****     *****     *****

I realise that I have omitted my normal Monthly Montage so I will do that later this week. [ I shouldn’t have published this today but I pressed ‘publish’ instead of ‘preview’ so I hope there are not too many mistakes when you read it.]

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